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When you do use natural materials there are quite a few things to consider in making a purchase of rough. The
most important factors are the shape of the rough--what size and type of gem will produce--and whether the
rough stone is free of flaws (cracks, veils, inclusions, bubbles, etc.). The first time you purchase rough, ask
someone to help you (including the man selling
—he’s not there to “trick” you—he wants you to come back
again), and, observe others making a purchase. Don't feel intimidated by what seems to be a mysterious
process. You will be surprised how quickly you develop skill in detecting flaws, particularly when you are about
to exchange your own hard-earned cash for it.
6.2 LEARNING TO FACET
Faceting is a craft which offers many levels of accomplishment, and we have never met anyone who could not
succeed at a personally satisfying level, (and often a profitable one as well). The rate at which people progress
varies in relation to their aptitudes and learning experiences, but you will make progress and you will find even
your beginning efforts will be gratifying. In the long run, some faceters attain Masters ranking by entering
competitions; many more involve themselves in selling their gems to a market that is available for the unique
custom cutting you will be able to perform; almost all follow the craft for personal relaxation and enjoyment.
There are ample rewards for everyone.
Many people are completely self-taught, including some very good faceters. Of course, it is good to have a
teacher if possible, particularly in the very early stages--even a few hours of instruction will give you a running
start. Almost as good would be a faceting friend whom you could call upon for advice or just to confirm that you
are doing the process correctly. As you gain experience you will find that most advanced learning comes from
talking to other faceters. If you are all on your own, however, don't fret about it--you can do it.
We recommend the book
“Amateur Gemstone Faceting”
by Tom Herbst
(even if you mean to end up a “pro”).
There are other how-to books
—most of them good—and these days, the Web has much information—including
designs. And of course, there is the basic start-out how-to information that is in this Owner's Manual. Also,
keep your eye on the ULTRA TEC Website (
). And not least--think about joining one of
the several Faceting Guilds
—even if you cannot go to their meetings, their newsletters are valuable.
6.2.1 GETTING STARTED
Not everyone teaches faceting in exactly the same way. Listen to what others have to say (if you know he's an
experienced faceter). On the other hand, there's nothing wrong with using this text now, as is, and saving other
advice for later.
The cut that will be described here is a Standard Round Brilliant. It is the most
common cut in the world. It is a good design for learning basic terminology and
basic techniques. Afte
r you’ve done it, move on to other designs-- the merit of
your faceting equipment is that it allows you to do things that native cutters with
primitive equipment cannot do. You will find cutting custom stones is much more
challenging and rewarding (including financially).
Now, back to the first-time stone. Having obtained a piece of material examine it to
determine what would be the best orientation of the stone so as to maximize the
yield. As you go on, there will be other considerations which affect the way you orient
the stone for faceting, particularly color and cleavage characteristics But for your first
stone, just consider the yield.
