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8)
With the marking complete, make a simple clamping caul by tracing
the fingerboard onto a piece of ¾” plywood and cut it out. Using this
during the glue up will help to evenly distribute clamping pressure.
9)
Apply glue to the neck surface, avoiding the truss rod.
10)
Apply glue to the back of the fingerboard.
NOTE:
Try not to get any glue on the top of the truss rod and also do not
apply glue down the center on the back of the fingerboard and the
location of the threaded insert.
11)
Place the fingerboard on the neck and using the plastic wire ties
or c-clamps with a caul, anchor the fingerboard securely until the glue
sets. A perfect amount of glue will show itself as tiny dots of
squeezeout along the entire length of the fingerboard on both sides.
Rather than wiping off glue squeezeout wait a little while until it starts
to set and then scrape it off. If you use hide glue allow it to dry
completely then scrape it off. This will avoid finishing problems later.
NOTE:
There are many ways and various clamps that can be used to
secure the fingerboard to the neck. Some builders already have a bunch of c-
clamps or f-style clamps and these will work fine. Others use a long rubber
bike tire inner tube that can be wrapped around the fingerboard, neck and
caul. The two main goals are good pressure and perfect alignment/position
of the fingerboard to the neck. Don’t forget to put a clamp on to secure the
neck tang to the back of the fingerboard. This is critical.
12)
Set this assembly aside to dry and let it dry for at least 1-2
hours. (assuming aliphatic resin-white or yellow glue)
Step Eighteen - Preparing & Leveling the Fingerboard
The fingerboard is the heart of the guitar. Take your time on the following
steps to ensure you have a good straight fingerboard with the proper radius.
Your fingerboard is made from Indian rosewood or Sonokeling (plantation
grown rosewood) and has been slotted, but requires some handwork to
complete.
1)
Using a wood file, file the neck flush to the fingerboard being careful
NOT
to remove any wood from the fingerboard. This is not the final
shaping step of the neck. This simply smoothes the fingerboard to the
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