18
Fashion Pieces
: Some modelers install the
fashion pieces on the port and starboard
quarter stanchions, then butt the hull
planking into them. However, in ship-
wright practice, fashion pieces fitted
over the planks (Figure 2-6) to seal their
end grain.
7. Ceiling (Inboard) Planking
Ceil the transom with a 3/64" thick plank
at the rail and deck, and 1/32" planks
between them. Bulwarks are ceiled with
one 1/16" thick stringer under the rail and
3/64" wide planking down to the deck.
Note: Glue 1/32" square, vertical strips
around the gunports and sweep ports to
cover the end grain of the ceiling
planks. Refer to Step 6.
8. Deck Planking
Coamings
: Before planking the deck, decide
how to treat the hatch, skylight, and com-
panionway coamings. The recommended
approach (follows shipwright practice) is to
glue the coamings to their appropriate
bulkheads, then plank around them. Be
sure to glue and pin 1/8" thick scrap wood
underneath each coaming's free sides prior
to installation. This takes the place of deck
beams and provides a permanent landing
for the planks (Figure 2-7).
The alternative approach is to install the
coamings, hatches, and deck structures
on top of the deck, but remember to
reduce their height by 1/16".
Deck Planks
: Deck planks are 1/16" thick.
Those forward and aft near the centerline
run parallel to it. Away from the center-
line, planks taper from midship aft and
parallel the waterway. To omit this detail,
install planks parallel to the centerline
without tapering. While not accurate, it
will still look presentable.
Prepare the strip by painting one edge
black or dark brown to simulate caulk-
ing. Be careful! Too much paint will
penetrate too deeply with unsightly
results. Do a test first. If it doesn't work,
edge glue the planks with brown wood-
worker's glue. This adhesive dries dark
enough to replicate caulking.
Procedure
: Start deck planking at the cen-
terline and work outboard. Scrape off any
glue that squeezes out before adding the
next plank. Butts can be included or
omitted. On the real ship, they don't
show up as readily as the seams. Butts
can also be scribed after the plank is laid.
If desired, fasten planks with brads or
treenails (see Step 5).
Nibbing Strake:
The nibbing strake lies
next to the waterway. Installation is a
little tedious, so either do it correctly or
take a shortcut (Figure 2-8).
Doublers:
These timbers reinforce the
deck beneath the capstan. See the plans
.
Completing the Basic
Hull Structure
Thoroughly examine the hull for
starved glue joints. Fill these with wood
glue or model spackling compound,
then smooth the hull, bulwarks, and
deck with sandpaper.
STAGE 3
Fig 2-8 Nibbing Ideas
Nibbing strake
Plank
Strip over planks
Thin wood or paper strip over planks
Optional
Correct Nibs
No Nibs
Fake Nibs
Photo Courtesy of
Melbourne Smith
