TYROLIT Hydrostress HBE 350, Руководство по эксплуатации

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(the diamonds not exposed) and the blade becomes dull (diamond segments polish smooth). This is called
glazing and luckily the blade can be de-glazed (sharpened). If the blade seems to refuse to cut anymore, you
know that it is glazed.
See below:
”Sharpening a Glazed Blade”
Never use a sharp motion or the blade will be damaged. Conversely, don’t feed too gently or the diamond
segments will become glazed. Keep the blade steadily working, but don’t be abusive or give the blade shock
impacts into the work surface.
Take great care to keep the blade perpendicularly aligned to the kerf. If the blade is crooked, it will easily bind.
When cutting reinforced concrete, if embedded steel such as rebar is encountered, take special care. When the
steel is encountered, the water will generally go clear and vibration will begin. Reduce the feed pressure by
about 1/3 and let the blade go at its own pace, if there is too much vibration the blade may be destroyed. Once
the steel is passed, continue normally. A properly sharp blade with good diamond exposure should be able to
cut through rebar if handled well.
NOTE: Never use a wet-type diamond blade without water. It will overheat and be destroyed.
NOTE: When using dry blades, do not allow them to overheat. It is best to cut no longer than about 60
seconds at a time, with 10 second running in air cool down times in between.
Always mount the blade with the arrow matching the direction of rotation of the machine (A direction arrow is
marked on the blade guard).
WARNING: Never use blades for cutting a material other than the material they were intended for.
SHARPENING A GLAZED BLADE
Diamond blades may become glazed (dull) for various reasons, such as cutting reinforced concrete with an
excess of embedded steel, or from cutting with too little downforce which can lead to the segments becoming
polished or “glazed”. Once the diamond segments are glazed, the blade’s cutting performance will degrade and
the segments will overheat. To resharpen the blade, turn down the water feed and make a few cuts in a very
soft, abrasive material such as brick.
MOUNTING THE BLADE
First make sure that the machine is unplugged.
Then, using the 17mm combination wrench, engage the arbor bolt and turn the arbor while pressing on the
arbor lock (See page 2). When the arbor reaches the right position, the arbor lock will be allowed to engage.
Then the arbor bolt may be loosened and the plain outer flange may be removed. (It is a standard, right hand
thread, so turn anticlockwise to loosen.)
The inner flanges are specific to the blade arbor bore diameter. There are three possible blade arbor bore sizes
depending on the market where the machine is sold: 20mm, 22.2mm (7/8”), and 25.4mm (1”) Check the inner
flange to ensure that the size matches the bore of the blade which you intend to use.
The 7/8” and 1” sizes each have a specific inner flange which must be used. For the 20mm size, the bore directly
engages the arbor and thus uses a plain flange on both the inside and outside.
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