DWELL METER FUNCTION
Connecting the analyzer : (see fig. 3)
1. Model equipped with an inductive pick-up:
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The black clip remained connected to the negative (-) terminal of the battery or the part of the
engine relied to the (-) post.
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Move the red clip to the negative (-) terminal of the ignition coil.
Note: The Tachometer still functions while the analyzer is connected as above there might be some slight
oscillations of the pointer at very low RPM reading.
2. Model with only two test leads:
The connections remain identical as in the Tachometer function.
DEFINITION OF DWELL ANGLE:
The dwell angle is the time the points close, allowing the current to go into the ignition coil and build up
energy before the spark.
If the dwell angle is too low, the point gap is too large, resulting in poor acceleration or missing at high
speed. If the dwell angle is too large, the point gap is too low, resulting in rapid deterioration of the points.
TESTING DISTRIBUTOR CAM WEAR:
1. Note the dwell angle at idle speed.
2. Increase the RPM to about 2000 RPM, while observing the dwell angle, if the dwell angle varies more
than the amount specified by the manufacturer, usually 3, the cam is worn out or the distributor shaft
is bent, repair or replace as necessary.
ADJUSTING THE DWELL ANGLE : (see fig. 4)
Note: On the Delco type distributor, the dwell angle can be adjusted from the outside while the engine is
running. Simply lift the window protecting the Allen screw and use an Allen wrench to adjust the
dwell angle to manufacturer’s specifications.
1. Bring the engine temperature to normal working temperature, stop the engine.
2. Remove the distributor cap and rotor. Ground the high voltage cable from the ignition coil.
3. Loosen the locking screw of the points.
4. Crank the engine while turning the adjusting screw until the proper dwell angle is obtained.
Note: The meter needle may oscillate at cranking speed, use the average reading for measurement.
5. Reassemble the distributor and recheck the dwell at idle speed.
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VOLTMETER FUNCTION
TESTING BATTERY LEAKAGE:
1. Connect the black clip to negative (-) post of the battery.
2. Move function switch to Lo-Volt scale.
3. Clip a metal nail to the red clip and touch various spots on the battery while watching the meter, if it
registers any reading, the battery is leaking and need to be cleaned with backing soda and water.
TESTING BATTERY AT HEAVY LOAD:
1. Follow the first two steps of testing battery at light load.
2. Remove the high voltage cable from the ignition coil and ground it.
3. Crank the engine for 15 seconds and note the voltage. If the reading is less than 9.5 on 12 volts
system or 5.7 on 6 volts system check the starter circuit, if it is OK, recharge the battery and retest. If
the reading is low, replace the battery.
TESTING THE CHARGING SYSTEM: (see fig. 5)
1. Connect the meter as in Testing battery at light load.
2. Gradually increase the RPM while watching the meter:
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If the pointer climbs steadily to between 13.5 and 15.5 or to the value specified by the
manufacturer, the charging system-regulator, alternator is OK.
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If the voltage is above the specified value or oscillates erratically, the regulator is defective.
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If the voltage is below the specified value, the regulator or alternator might be defective, proceed
as follow:
a. Disconnect the (-) cable from the battery.
b. Remove the wire from the field terminal of the alternator, do not let it touch the ground.
c. Use a jumper wire, connect the Field terminal of the alternator to its output (BAT) terminal.
Refer to the owner’s manual for more specific information.
d. Reconnect the (-) battery cable, start the engine and slowly increase the RPM while watching
the meter.
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If the voltage is now above 13.5V, the regulator is defective. Caution: perform this test as
quickly as possible and do not exceed 17V.
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If the voltage is still low, the alternator is defective.
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