❏
18. Cut the air exit slot around the bottom of the
cowl. On our prototype, we made this slot about 5/8"
wide and extended it about 1/2-way around the cowl.
Refer to your own documentation for the exact sizing
and location of the slot on your model.
❏
19. Use the die-cut 1/8" plywood
cowl brace
as
a pattern to make two more cowl braces from leftover
1/8" plywood. Trim each cowl brace to fit inside the
bottom of the cowl, bridging the gap between the
cowl ring and the bottom of the cowl. Glue the braces
into position.
NOTE
: There are four additional cowl ring pieces
labeled CRM. If desired, they can be used to
reinforce the joint between the forward and aft cowl.
❏
20.
Thoroughly
sand the outside of the cowl so
filler will adhere. Use filler such as automotive Bondo
®
or something similar to blend the aft cowl to the
forward cowl.
Hint:
Wrap the cowl with masking tape
about 1-1/2" on both sides of seam. Apply only as
much filler as is required, then remove the tape. This
will greatly reduce the amount of sanding required.
❏
21. Sand the filler smooth, blending the aft cowl
to the forward cowl.
❏
22. Trim the eighteen molded ABS
cowl blisters
so only about a 1/16" lip remains around the edge.
Thoroughly
sand the cowl blisters so adhesive, filler
and paint will adhere.
❏
23. Refresh the pencil lines that you drew earlier
in step 2. Notice that the two blisters on the top and
the two blisters on the bottom of the cowl straddle the
centerline of the fuse.
❏
24.
Align the cowl blisters over the lines you
marked on the cowl and glue them into position with
thin CA. Drill 1/16" vent holes through the cowl under
the blisters so they won’t pop off in hot conditions.
❏
25. Cut the 50" strip of 1" wide glass cloth into
three-inch strips. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the
strips around the inside of the cowl to reinforce the
joint between the forward and aft cowl and between
the aft cowl and the cowl ring. Be certain the cowl is
thoroughly
sanded in these areas so the epoxy
will adhere.
- 45 -
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