7
ASSEMBLE THE WINGS
Important: If you remove all the parts from the plastic
bags, save the plastic bag the cowl comes in. The
bag will be used later when the cowl is installed.
Start with the left wing so the assembly matches the
photos the fi rst time through.
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1. Lay a few paper towels on top of each other and cut
them into small squares. These paper towel squares will
come in handy for wiping away excess epoxy throughout
the assembly process ( and will save you from wasting
whole paper towels).
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2. If necessary, use a covering iron with a covering
sock to go over the wing, fl ap and aileron to remove
any wrinkles. The best method to remove the wrinkles
is to glide the iron over the covering until the wrinkles
disappear, then go over the area again, pushing down
on the iron to bond the covering to the wood. If the
wrinkles don’t disappear, the balsa in that area might
be fl exing inward. If this is happening, don’t press down.
Simply let the heat of the iron shrink the covering. If
the wrinkles momentarily disappear, then immediately
reappear, the iron may be too hot, thus causing air
bubbles. Lower the temperature of the iron or use a
sharp #11 blade or pin to puncture several holes in the
covering, then reheat. The suggested iron temperature
is around 360 degrees F.
Fw 190 FACT
The Focke-Wulf FW 190 was designed by Kurt Tank
in the late 1930’s. It was used in a wide variety of
roles including fi ghter, fi ghter-bomber, and ground
attack. It was fi rst used on the Eastern Front in
Nov/Dec of 1942.
MOUNT THE AILERON SERVOS
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1. Carefully remove the left aileron servo hatch
from the wing by peeling off the masking tape holding the
hatch to the wing. Use a paper towel square dampened
with naphtha lighter fl uid or similar solvent to remove
any glue left behind from the tape.
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2. Install the rubber bushings and metal grommets
in the aileron servo. Install a servo arm on the servo.
Position the aileron servo on the aileron servo hatch
cover as shown with the servo arm centered in the
opening. Set the two 3/4" x 3/4" x 3/8" [19 x 19 x
9.5mm] hardwood blocks over the embossed servo
block locations to check that the block locations are
correct. If not, mark the new location.
When mounting the servo blocks on the bottom of the
servo hatch, make sure that the grain of the wood is
perpendicular to the hatch.
To increase the strength of the glue joint, use a T-pin
to prick holes into the gluing surface of the servo
blocks and the plywood servo hatch. Be careful not
to prick holes completely through the servo hatch
and covering.
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3. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the two blocks to
the bottom of the servo hatch over the embossed servo
block locations. Thoroughly coat the end of the blocks
and allow them to set for a few seconds to allow the
blocks to absorb the epoxy, then recoat the blocks. Use
clamps to hold the blocks to the servo hatch.
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4. Once the epoxy has cured, remove the clamps.
Place a 1/16" [1.6mm] spacer, such as a piece of
cardstock from a header card or a piece of paper
Содержание FW 190
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