4. Remove the stab and elevators from the plans. Build
the fin next in the same manner using the R-1 and R-2
die-cut pieces with a 1/4" sq. and 1/4" x 1/2" balsa
frames shown. Cut the rudder to shape from the re-
mainder of the 1/4" x 1-1/2" balsa stock used for the
elevators. Position the rudder in place to the back of
the fin and glue R-3 in place to the leading edge of
the rudder. Remove the parts from your building
board.
5. The elevators, stab, fin and rudder are now final-
sanded to shape. Start by using masking tape to
mount the elevators to the stab. Use a sanding block
to go over all of the outside surfaces, to carefully
match them. Lay the stab on a flat working surface,
masking tape down, and use the sanding block to
sand it flat. Use the sanding block to taper the
elevators as shown on one side; once satisfied, tape
the stab/elevator hinge line, turn the stab over,
remove the tape from this side, and repeat the pro-
cess. The same method is used for the fin and rud-
der. Once complete, use sandpaper to round the
leading edges. Set these parts aside for covering
and assembly to the fuselage.
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY
Before starting construction, study the plans and draw-
ings to familiarize yourself with how the fuselage is
assembled. Note that it really is nothing more than a
basic "box" fuselage with semi-formers in the nose area
to create the rounded cowling effect. This simple and ef-
fective way of making a fuselage can only be ruined in
one way; building it crooked. This can be done by not
making the fuselage side frames identical and/or mis-
sizing the top and bottom cross braces. Another com-
mon error is to make improper joints. The Elder relys a
great deal on the strength of its frame—make those
joints fit correctly. Note also that the uprights and cross
braces are a mix of both spruce and balsa. These are
notated.
1. Locate and remove die-cut parts F-6 and F-10, two of
each. Securely pin F-6 in place directly over your
covered fuselage plan. Note that the bottom aft
spruce longeron terminates in the rear notch in part
F-6. Glue the forward end of the bottom spruce
longeron into F-6, disregard the curve of this
longeron for now.
2. Pin F-10 in place directly over the plans. Measure
and cut the top rear spruce longeron that fits in place
from the back of the "tab" on F-10 aft to the tail post.
(A tool such as an X-acto mitre box and razor saw is
quite good for cutting spruce.) Glue the top rear
longeron in place to F-10.
3. Locate one of the three 1/4" x1" x 3 "ply formers that
are supplied with your kit. Hold this former in place
on top of F-10, in front of the "tab." With a pencil,
mark its forward location on the former. From your
1/4" sq. balsa stock, cut and fit the top forward
longeron which extends forward from the pencil
mark you just made to the back face of the firewall.
Note that you will have to make a slight cut in the top
of this longeron at the wing's leading edge location
to get It to bend back down to follow the drawing—
just "crack" It slightly at this point. Glue this
longeron in place.
4. Cut, fit and glue In place all of the uprights and
diagonal braces (1/4" sq. and 1/4" x 1/2" balsa) from
the nose back to and including the 1/4" sq. uprights
just ahead of the F-10 former (these connect the
front edge of the F-10 with the top rear edge of F-6).
5. Cut, fit and glue In place the rearmost 1/4" sq. spruce
tailpost upright—be sure that the correct angle is
also trimmed Into its bottom end for the bottom
longeron. With the frame firmly secured to the
building board, bend the bottom longeron up to meet
the rearmost upright that was Just Installed. Glue
and securely block this longeron in place.
6. With the exception of the 1/4" x 1/2" servo tray bearer,
cut, fit and glue all remaining balsa and spruce
uprights in place; thus completing the basic frame.
You will now want to make a second, identical frame.
We have found the easiest way to be sure that they
are identical is to build the second frame directly on
top of the first. Be sure to cover the first frame with
Monokote backing or food wrap first.
7. Hold or tape the two completed frames together and
use your sanding block to make sure they are iden-
tical. Separate them and sand their sides smooth
(both sides) with the sanding block.
8. Measure and cut the two required 1/4" x 1/2" x 2-1/2"
balsa cross braces that fit at the top and bottom of
the fuselage at the wing's trailing edge. Measure
and cut the 1/4" x 2-1/2" balsa bottom cross brace that
fits in the bottom of the radio compartment and the
1/4"x2-1/2" spruce cross brace that fits in place at the
top, front of the two frames. Locate all of the three
1/4" x 1" x 3" ply formers. Position the two frames up-
side down over the top view on the plans—accurate-
ly please! Pin them in place at right angles to the
work surface. (NOTE: Due to the slight incidence
angle in these frames, they will not fit flat to the sur-
face. This is not important at this time.) Epoxy the
two forward 1/4" x 1" x 3" landing gear formers in
place in the notches provided in the F-6's. Glue the
two remaining balsa bottom cross braces in place-
pin and al low to dry. Remove the frame from the work
surface, turn it over and glue the forward 1/4" sq.
spruce and rear(wing'strailing edge) 1/4 "x 1/2 "cross
braces in place. Now epoxy the remaining 1/4"x1"x
3" ply former in the space left on top of F-10.
9. Locate the 1/4" x 2-5/8" x 3" ply firewall. You must now
use the plans to locate the position of your motor
mount on the firewall. This mount is installed in-
verted. Mark the location of the four mounting holes
onto the firewall. Use a drill and a 1/8" dia. drill bit to
drill the holes through the firewall. Use the four 4-40
blind mounting nuts provided and epoxy them in
place to the back of the firewall, into the holes just
drilled—keep adhesive out of the threads. Test
mount the motor mount with the 4-40 x 7/8" bolts pro-
vided. Remove the mount and epoxy the firewall to
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