movement be smooth, non-binding but not sloppy. Once
you are satisfied, make the required "Z"-bends at the
servo-end of the pushrods and make the connection to
the rudder and elevator output arms.
Adjust the whole system for neutral and test the move-
ment of the surfaces when actuated by your radio. The
plans show the recommended movement of the rudder
and elevator and this can be adjusted by moving the
clevises in or out on the horns; "in" would be more move-
ment or throw and "out" would be less.
Make the connection from the throttle servo to the
engine by screwing at least 1/4 "of one of the 6 ".thread-
ed one-end pushrods (three provided) into one end of the
inner plastic tube provided. As shown on the plans, trim
the length of this wire to suit your engine's requirements
and give it a "Z"-bend to attach to the servo output arm.
At the engine-end of this pushrod, thread at least 1/4" of
the 1" threaded stud into the inner pushrod tube and
complete the connection with one of the clevises provid-
ed. As before, test the movement of the throttle pushrod
by radio to ensure free movement.
The aileron servo is now installed in the wing center sec-
tion. As shown on the plans, you need to make a cut-out
in the bottom of the center section, just ahead of the
cockpit area, to fit your servo. Use the length of 1/4 "x
3
3/8"
basswood provided to make two servo mounting rails-
about 1 -1/4" long. Clear away the Monokote ahead and
behind the servo cut-out and glue these rails in place.
Mount your aileron servo with wood screws. Again, as
shown on the plans, the connection between the servo
and the aileron torque rods is made by using the two re-
maining 6" threaded one-end pushrods. Thread the
nylon torque rod fittings in place on the exposed arms,
thread the clevises onto the pushrods and connect them
to the nylon fittings. Make the required "Z"-bends to
engage the servo's output arm and attach. Now adjust
the clevises for neutral aileron with the radio on and the
servo plugged in to the receiver. Test the ailerons for
free, non-binding movement.
Everyone tends to set-up the surface throws of a model
to suit their particular style of flying. This is fine as long
as you have a place to start. We recommend that you
start with the surface throws that we indicate below and
then adjust to suit. These movements are based on our
prototype which weighed 5-1/4 lbs. with a Saito .45 and
average-weight radio gear;
RUDDER: 5/8" per side, 1 -1/4 " total
ELEVATOR: 1/2" up and down, 1" total
AILERONS: 5/16" up, 1/4 " down
CAUTION: After adjustment of your servos, be sure to
reinstall the retaining screws that hold the output arms
in place on your servos.
PRE-FLIGHT INSTRUCTIONS
This section assumes that your Elder is completely
done, covered, painted as needed, etc. We are now going
to establish the correct C.G. (Center of Gravity). Start by
completely assembling the airplane. Note on the plans
that the mark shown for the C.G. point is directly over the
spars and directly beneath the top mating point of the
"king-post." Slip a length of string under the kingpost
and I iff the airplane off your bench. The airplane, ideally,
should hang suspended either level or slightly nose-
down. This would mean that the C.G. is where it should
be to provide you with a stable flying airplane. If, while
hanging suspended the nose or tail hangs quite low then
you have to do some equipment shifting to get it balanc-
ed.
For instance, if the tail hangs low, then you know that
some of the equipment has to be moved forward.
Remember, this balance is always achieved without fuel
in the tank—that's burn-off weight and cannot be
counted. The easiest component to move is the battery
pack. Depending on the pack's configuration, it can be
installed beneath the fuel tank. If you still need more
weight forward, slide the servo tray all the way forward
as far as it will go. If more weight is needed (highly
unlikely) then you will have to add lead weight in the
nose, beneath the tank. If you have to add lead, don't
worry, the Elder will still fly quite well.
If the airplane is nose-heavy, then try moving the servo
tray back as far as it will go, etc... Once the airplane
hangs suspended as it should, you will have to now glue
the servo tray permanently in place against the 1/4" x 1/2 "
balsa bearers that it rests on.
Prior to flying this model, get in the habit of making a
complete check of the airframe. Is the prop tight?. Bat-
teries in both the airplane and transmitter fully charged?
Engine bolts tight? All components firmly attached to
each other? Fuel lines clear? Wheels roll easily? Make a
radio system check as well—up is up, down is down,
throttle moves freely and the ailerons move in the right
direction—let's fly!
FLYING INSTRUCTIONS
Once again, if this is your first R/C aircraft DO NOT AT-
TEMPT TO FLY IT YOURSELF. Go to your local hobby
shop and get information about any local flying clubs in
your area. It is within such groups that knowledgeable,
experienced individuals can be found to assist you.
Assuming that the radio system (airborne and transmit-
ter) are fully charged and that your engine is completely
broken-in and reliable, let's head for the flying field. Fill
the tank and turn the radio system on. With the engine
running at idle, point the airplane directly into the wind
and advance the throttle smoothly. With most "tail-
draggers" a small amount of right rudder will be needed
to keep the airplane on a straight heading. With a little
experience you will be able to keep the take-off roll quite
straight. As the speed picks-up, the tail will lift and in a
short time the plane will be airborne. Keep it headed
straight into the wind in a shallow climb; don't "horse" it
up with excess elevator.
Once sufficient altitude is reached, try some turns to get
used to the handling characteristics. With the throws
that we called out earlier, the ailerons should be positive
but not jumpy. Once you have the airplane trimmed out
for straight and level, try the throttle, at altitude and get
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