Now position the trailing edge/torque rod assembly
against the trail ing edge of the wing's center section
—lightly use a sanding block to "true-up" this joint
as needed. While holding this assembly in place,
move each threaded linkage arm forward to dent the
balsa on the bottom of the center section. Remove
the trailing edge assembly and use a file or Mote-
tool to groove the wing's center section at the two
dents just made to allow forward movement of the
linkage arms. Once satisfied with the movement of
these arms, the hardwood trailing edge assembly
can be epoxied to the trailing edge of the wing.
Again, be careful to avoid adhesive getting into the
area of the linkage arms; you want them to move
freely.
7. Once again, accurately pin and/or tape the wing in
place to the fuselage. Use the plans for reference to
now drill two 1/8" dia. wing bolt holes through the top
rear of the center section and through the 1/4" ply
former directly beneath it—note the angle that these
two holes are drilled at to take into account the slope
of the top airfoil at that point. Remove the wing from
the fuselage. Tap the two holes in the ply former with
either an 8-32 tap or an 8-32 metal bolt. Once the
threads have been established use a little thin CA
adhesive to "coat" them and then run the tap into the
holes once again; this toughens-up the threads. It
may be necessary to run the tap or bolt through
these threads several times to allow the nylon 8-32
bolts to clear. Use a 3/16" drill bit to now "clear-out"
the two 1/8" holes in the wing center section for clear
passage of the wing bolts. Now bolt the wing in
place on the fuselage.
8. Locate die-cut former F-8 (balsa). As you can see
from the plans, this former is trimmed at the bottom
(sanding block) to fit onto the top of the center sec-
tion's leading edge where it becomes the "shelf" for
the 3/32" x 1/4" fuselage fairing strips. Apply glue to
the bottom of this part and position it accurately in
place on the center section, flat against the rear face
of F-7— don't get glue on F-7. Start making the
fuselage/wing fairing by first cutting to length the
top center 3/32" x 1/4" balsa strip, the center one when
viewed from the top. Sand its rear bottom edge to
match the countourof the center section's sheeting.
Once satisfied, carefully glue in place to the top of
F-8 and the center section sheeting. Repeat this pro-
cess to the left and right of this center strip until the
rough fairing is complete. With the center section
still in place, use your sanding block and sandpaper
to now smooth the fuselage/wing joint to a one-
piece look. Any small gaps or rough edges can be fill-
ed with a filler such as DAP White Vinyl Spackling
compound and sanded smooth again. Remove the
wing from the fuselage.
9. Now make the cockpit cut-out in the wing center sec-
tion. The pattern, provided on the plans, can either
be traced or the pattern itself cut-out of the plans to
serve as a cutting guide. Use a #11 X-acto knife for
this purpose and try to be as neat as possible.
10. Note the aileron detail drawing directly beneath the
left wing panel plan. The ailerons will need their
leading edges sanded in this manner to facilitate
non-binding movement (do this now). Next locate
and drill the 1/8"dia. hole in the inboard leading edge
of each aileron that will engage the exposed torque
rod ends. These holes are now sleeved with the two
lengths of 1/8" O.D. brass tubing in your parts bag.
These should be roughed-up and epoxied carefully
into the holes in the ailerons. Now use a Moto-tool to
make a groove from these holes inboard to the
aileron ends. These grooves will hold the torque rod
arms and allow the ailerons to fit up to the wing's
trailing edge.
Using a #11 X-acto blade, carefully locate and cut
each of the nylon hinge slots in both the aileron and
wing trailing edge—5 hinges per aileron. Trial-fit the
ailerons to the wing panels and torque rod arms. Do
any trimming necessary to facilitate free, non-
binding movement. With the ailerons temporarily
hinged to the wing, use your sanding block to now
sand the entire assembly to final shape. Remove
ailerons and hinges, set aside for covering.
11. Cut four 4 1/2" lengths of 1/4" dia. dowel (two from
each of the two 36" lengths provided). These are now
used to make the "king post" that fits to the wing
center section. This assembly is most easily made
by first constructing two separate triangular pieces
and then joining the two pieces at the top. Chamfer
the top ends to fit as shown on the plans and epoxy.
The bottom ends must also be chamfered to sit
squarely on the top surface of the center section,
just ahead of the cockpit. Do not attach the finished
structure yet, it will be assembled to the wing after
covering.
12. Locate the two required rear fuselage pushrod exits
(die-cut ply). Clean theiredges with asanding block.
Note their location on the plans—directly beneath
the stab. Glue in place.
13. A
1/16"x 1/2"x 12 "ply strip is provided for the fuselage
frame "joint caps". The drawing on the fuselage
plan depicts how these are to be cut using scissors
or shears. These are now carefully glued in place to
each of the exposed fuselage upright and cross
brace joints as shown on the plans. Once these are
in place, use sandpaper to lightly smooth their
edges.
14. Use a #11 X-acto blade to now make the hinge slots
(six total) in the elevators and stab—note their loca-
tion on the plans. Temporarily install the elevators in
place. Now cut the two required hinge slots in the fin
and rudder. Note on the plans that you will now have
to clear-out a semi-circular opening at the leading
edge of the rudder to allow it movement around the
elevator joiner. This allows the rudder to fit in place
against the fin when hinged. Once satisfied that all
movement is free and non-binding, disassemble
these parts and set aside for covering.
15. As shown on the plans, we used short lengths of in-
ner throttle pushrod tubing to make the stab and fin
flying wire brace points. These should now be glued
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