Next up we will mark out and bend the truss rods. You can build with full or short truss rods. As with
full truss rods you easily get frame and truck clearance issues I opted for short rods cut at the sill and
mounted. Drill/file the turnbuckle to accept the 3/32” trussrods. The end beams will be drilled 3/32” a
scale inch in (.072”) from the side sill centered on the end beam for a single rod. If you opt for a
double they are staggered rods 3.5” and 4.375” from the top of the end beam. Both are next to the sills
so I used those as my guide. If you are running full trussrods you can file and thread the ends for 2-56
thread for the supplied nuts. Otherwise I used a 2/56 bolt and nut on the washer as a made up NBW. I
also supplied laser cut square end washers if they suit your car build. ( I do have cast square end beam
washers available) Bend and fit the trussrods in place. To securely mount the trussrods as short, I used
small 1/16” cotter pins and used the head as the mount to drill and press into the side sills.
DO not
drill through!
Glue in the 2 truck mounting blocks ( Qty 2 - 0.5” tall/0.405” wide/1.25” long) between the center sills
centered at the small dado for the truck truss rod support.
Take the single wood block for the brake cylinder (0.25” tall/.0650” wide/ 1.330” long) and glue to the
outer and 2
nd
sill aligning the one edge to the center of the car. Block is glued to the right side of center.
Take the 2 buffer blocks ( 0.550” tall/.0.220” wide/ 1.350” long) and glue to the center of the end
beams. Using the plastic NBW drill and install 4 per side on the buffer blocks.
Brake Details
Using the photos as a guide all the hardware and details can be added. You can also use the book Two
Foot plans by M2FQ page 22, Can purchase from Gary Kohler. (Keep in mind the book drawing is a
view from above the car)
Take the brake cylinder and drill out the dimples for the #0 Lag. Use the holes as a guide and mark the
location to the block you glued on. Drill the wood #60 for the #0 Lag bolts. The brake cylinder will
need 2 holes drilled, One on the front a 1/16” hole for the linkage rod and the rear for the air line 3/32”
The Air tank is 2 parts to be glued together, use a strong glue suck as E6000 as it is a thicker bond.
Drill the rear of the tank for the air cylinder line 3/32” and the bottom of the triple valve inlet 3/32 for
the incoming line. Be careful as its a thin wall after drilled. Take the laser cut steel H plate and use as
a drill guide for the air tank to mount the tank to the plate using 2 of the #2-32 self tapping screws.
Predrill 1/16” into the tank. Mount the plate and tank to the frame as shown using 4 - #0 lag bolts
predrilling the holes #60
All of the airlines and linkages are made up brass wire and Trackside details pipe fittings for the scale
look. This can be simulated or done fully as shown. The wire and castings are not included in the kit
but can be purchased easily.
1/8” for main airline from car end to end.
3/32” for the air valve and from the valve to the cylinder
3/64 brass wire for brake linkages from all levers
Trackside Details (TD-195) Clevis fittings
Trackside Details (TD-228) Large handwheel valve straight through
Trackside Details (TD-249) Large elbows for plumbing
