For all of the instructions of the frame and the details I will be working with the
deck upside down
.
Meaning decking side on the bottom. This will insure all the details and parts are properly laid out.
Using a wide flat work surface lay out the frame sills and end beams with the outer predrilled side sills
on the outside. The drilled holes will be towards the bottom. Using a grid or large square glue the end
beams to the sills. File or clean the dado joints as needed. Glue all but the 2
nd
sill to the end beams.
Do not glue the 2
nd
sill to the end beam yet as it needs to be removed for drilling the linkage
support later.
I have just laid in the needle beam for a frame spacer to keep the sills aligned. Do not glue them in
place yet.
With the frame cured, remove the Brake linkage support and using flat pliers or a vise bend the tabs
down at the scribed lines. Be sure to bend the correct way using the photo as a guide.
Depending on the flat car model you want to build measure
and markout the needle beams. 46” or 50” centered on the car
frame.
46” = scale 3.358” 50” = scale 3.650
Once marked and placed into position, using the brake linkage
support that you folded locate the mounting points of the #0
lag bolts using the holes to mark with a pencil. Drill with a
#60 drillbit in the needlebeam and sill that is loose on the
frame. (Use the frame images at the end of the instructions for
linkage layout and rough heights) The top of the bracket will
be just above needlebeam for the linkage clearance.
Once drilled you can glue in the 2
nd
sill to the frame and glue on the Needlebeams.
