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cheek . Cut in the direction of the top edges . A final light,
downward pull of the sandpaper strip will clean up any
marks left by the chisel .
straight line from the bottom of the heel to the zero point
at the top . Continue this line across the heel cap and up the
opposite side . These lines may be tricky to draw, because
they must taper away to nothing — to the zero point at the
top of the heel .
With a sharp chisel, remove about half of the measured
amount of wood . Don’t overdo it: set the neck into the
body and check the fit . You’ll finish the shaping with sand-
paper — preferably 100-grit emery cloth (cloth-backed
sandpaper) . Loosen the neck joint and slide a strip of this
sandpaper or emery cloth between the heel cheek and the
body with the abrasive side facing the cheek . Slide the strip
almost — but not quite — to the top edge of the heel (this
top edge should be left intact) . Be sure to angle down to
keep the heel cap in contact with the sides . Hold the heel
against the guitar body and pull the strip out toward you
(pictured)
. This removes a little bit of wood while conform-
ing to the shape of the guitar body . Shake the sawdust off
the sanding strip and repeat the procedure on the opposite
cheek . Sand equally from side to side . If you need to remove
a lot of wood, make two or three passes before changing to
the other cheek . The fit will change rapidly, so check your
progress frequently .
A small ledge of unsanded wood will remain on the bottom
of the heel between the sanded cheeks . Either “pull-sand”
it with the strip, or use a sharp chisel to remove it .
Remove from shaded area
Remove
wood here
Top
view
Bolt-on
neck
Dovetail
neck
Leave edges intact
Removing wood from the top
edge tips the neck upward
Removing wood at the bottom
edge tips the neck back
Top
view
Remove
wood here
Wood is seldom removed from the top of the heel, but if
the neck block was mistakenly tipped forward when glued
in place, the neck may be “overset” too far away from the
body . In this case, the straightedge laid on the fretboard will
extend above the bridge . Removing wood from the top of
the heel on both the treble and bass sides equally will bring
the neck up so the straightedge comes down to the top of
the bridge
(pictured)
.
Use the formula in “Understanding neck angle geometry” to
determine how much wood to remove . With a sharp pencil
and a straightedge, mark the area to be chiseled away in a
straight line from the top of the heel to the zero point at the
bottom . Repeat this line on the opposite side .
The sandpaper strip described above won’t work here
because the fretboard is in the way, so you’ll need to use
a sharp chisel to remove the long taper of wood on each
Neck adjustment: tilt the neck up
Remove from shaded area
Remove
wood here
Top
view
Bolt-on
neck
Dovetail
neck
Leave edges intact
Removing wood from the top
edge tips the neck upward
Removing wood at the bottom
edge tips the neck back
Top
view
Remove
wood here
25
Содержание 5295
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