Stewart MacDonald 5295, Руководство по сборке

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Gluing cauls can be made to match the radius and length of
the fretboard, and notched to rest over the frets . However,
a simple method that works well for gluing and aligning
the fretboard is to wrap it onto the neck with a large rubber
band . You may need two rubber bands, but one worked
for us .
With the truss rod installed, clamp the peghead into a
swivel- jawed repair vise or to your benchtop, with the
neck overhanging . Cut a broomstick or a scrap of wood as
a prop, and wedge it under the neck heel with just enough
force to push the neck into a slight upbow, or “relief,” of
about .012" or .015”, as noted using a straightedge . This will
be approximately the same amount as the slight backbow
the fretboard probably took on during fretting . The two
curves, upbow and backbow, will cancel each other as the
fretboard is glued on, resulting in a straight neck and an
unadjusted truss rod .
Lightly spread Titebond glue evenly on the neck surface .
Leave the edges of the truss rod channel almost dry, the glue
squeeze-out will spread right up to the edge of the channel .
Be careful not to get glue in the channel . Set the fretboard on
the glue surface, and align the nut end with the nut line on
the neck . Tie the rubber band at the nut end, and start wrap-
ping
(pictured) . The fretboard will align itself as you wrap,
and can be easily moved if one edge overhangs . Stretch the
rubber band tightly as you wrap toward the neck heel, go
around the neck joint and the heel, and then wrap back to
the nut . Even with a light glue application, you’ll probably
get a lot of glue squeeze-out . Wipe off excess glue and let
the neck dry overnight .
Installing the fretboard
edge and run a bead of water-thin superglue into the slot .
Let it run through the slot and out the other side . Loose frets
can be clamped using a 16"-radius sanding block as a caul
before running the superglue into the slot . Use wax paper
between the caul and the fretboard .
With flush-ground fret cutters, nip the fret ends close to
the edge of the fretboard (don’t dig into the wood) . Use
a smooth mill file, or sandpaper on the carpenter’s level,
to bring the fret ends flush . Then, holding the fretboard
flat against your work surface, use the mill file to bevel the
fret ends at about 60° . Work slowly — you can always add
more bevel, but you can’t put the metal back . Lightly round
over the sharp upper edges of the fretboard so they’ll feel
comfortable to your hand . Our Fret Beveling File makes this
job quick and uniform .
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