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Use a small straightedge to examine where the top and back
meet the sides . Look for dips, rises or other imperfections .
Scrape and sand the wood flat and smooth for at least 1" on
the sides and 2" or 3" on the top and back This will provide
accurate surfaces for your router base and ball-bearing
cutter . Be particularly careful in sanding and smoothing
this area because imperfections will result in an uneven
binding channel .
Regardless of the tool you use to rout the body for binding, a
straight-cut router bit must be used to produce a rightangle
ledge . You can use a Dremel router with our adjustable bind-
ing router attachment and 5/16" bit, if you approach the final
size slowly . We used a more powerful laminate router of
manageable size and a relatively small-diameter baseplate .
The baseplate didn’t extend far enough out on the arched
guitar back to tip it out of proper alignment with the sides .
We also used our ball-bearing Binding Router Bit Set .
To keep wood dust and chips out of the shop in our video,
we moved outside and rested the guitar body on the open
top of a rectangular plastic garbage can . Hold the body
securely with your elbows as you rout . For more stability,
secure the guitar body to your plywood work surface by
screwing several close-fitting wood blocks onto the board
around the body . Thin strips of veneer or heavy cardboard
can be lightly wedged between the blocks and the body
to hold it fast . You can also use the waist clamp fastened to
your workbench for most of the routing, and remove it to
rout the waist of the body .
Wood tear-out is always possible when routing, but espe-
cially with long-grain, quartersawn tonewoods . Therefore,
start with four “climb-cuts,” so-called because the router
is “climbing,” or being pulled along as the bit grabs the
wood .
With a saw, chisel and file, remove the section of soundboard
that covers the top of the neck joint cavity, and smooth the
edges . Routing for the body bindings is easier if the excess
top and back overhang is removed first . You’ll be able to see
Routing and binding
Trimming the top and back overhang
Routing for the plastic body bindings
Begin at the centers of the top and lower bouts on both
the treble and bass sides
(illustrated)
, with the router base
moving in the direction of the rotating cutter (clockwise) .
Rout up to the areas indicated by the arrows . When all four
climb-cuts have been made, you can move the router in the
opposite direction (counterclockwise) cutting into the wood
rather than climbing
(illustrated)
. Make one continuous
pass around the guitar . When you reach the areas that were
already climb-cut, the router will pass without tear-out .
Use a dial caliper to set your router cutting dimensions, and
make a few test cuts on scrap wood until you get the proper
height . Test-fit your bindings on these practice cuts . If you
can, test on scrap that is curved similar to the shapes you
will be routing on the guitar .
the router bit better, and there’s less chance of wood tearout .
You can trim off the overhang with a sharp knife and a file,
or get in close with those hand tools and flush-cut with a
ball-bearing router bit from the hardware store .
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