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Felling back cut
1
. Make the felling back cut at least 50mm higher than the horizontal notching cut. Keep the felling back
cut parallel to the horizontal notching cut. Make the felling back cut so enough wood is left to act as a
hinge. The hinge wood keeps the tree from twisting and falling in the wrong direction.
Do not cut through the hinge.
2
. As the felling gets close to the hinge, the tree should begin to fall. If there is any chance that the tree
may not fall in the desired direction or it may rock back and bind the saw chain, stop cutting before the
felling back cut is complete and use wedges of wood, plastic or aluminium to open the cut and drop the
tree along the desired line of fall.
3
. When the tree begins to fall, remove the product from the cut, stop the motor, put the product down,
and then use the retreat path planned. Be alert for overhead limbs falling and watch your footing.
Limbing and pruning
Limbing is removing the branches from a fallen tree. When limbing leave larger lower limbs to support
the log off the ground. Remove the small limbs in one cut. Branches under tension should be cut from
the bottom up to avoid binding the product.
WARNING! Never climb into a tree to limb or prune! Do not stand on ladders, platforms, logs, or in
any position which may cause you to lose the balance or control of the saw! When pruning trees,
it is important not to make the flush cut next to main limp or trunk until you have cut off the limb
further out to reduce the weight! This prevents stripping the bark from the main member!
WARNING! If the branches to be pruned are above chest height, hire a professional to perform the
pruning!
Cutting spring poles
1
. A spring pole is any log, branch, rooted stump, or sapling which is bent under tension by other wood,
so that it springs back if the wood holding it is cut or removed.
2
. On a fallen tree, a rooted stump has a high potential of springing back to the upright position during
the bucking cut to separate the log from the stump.
3
. Watch out for spring poles, they are dangerous.
Bucking a log
Bucking or cross-cutting is cutting a log into lengths. It is important to make sure your footing is firm and
your weight is evenly distributed on both feet. When possible, the log should be raised and supported
by the use of limbs, logs or chocks.
1
. Follow the simple directions for easy cutting. When the log is supported along its entire length, it is cut
from the top (over buck).
2
. When the log is supported on one end, cut 1/3 the diameter from the underside (under buck). Then
make the finished cut by over-bucking to meet the first cut.
3
. When the log is supported on both ends, cut 1/3 the diameter from the top (over buck). Then make the
finished cut by under bucking the lower 2/3 to meet the first cut.
4
. When bucking on a slope always stand on the uphill side of the log. When “cutting through”, to maintain
complete control release the cutting pressure near the end of the cut without relaxing your grip on the
product handles. Don’ let the chain contact the ground. After completing the cut, wait for the saw chain
to stop before you move the product. Always stop the motor before moving from tree to tree.
4
. Support small logs on a sawing stand or another log while bucking.
6
. If the wood diameter is large enough for you to insert a soft bucking wedge without touching the
chain, you should use the wedge to hold the cut open to prevent pinching.
Vibration and noise reduction
To reduce the impact of noise and vibration emission, limit the time of operation, use low-vibration and
low-noise operating modes as well as wear personal protective equipment.
Take the following points into account to minimise the vibration and noise exposure risks:
- Only use the product as intended by its design and these instructions.
- Ensure that the product is in good condition and well maintained.
- Use correct attachments for the product and ensure they are in good condition.
- Keep tight grip on the handle.
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