Stanley SM16, Оригинальное руководство пользователя

Страница: 21 / 104

21
ENGLISH (
Original Instructions)
1.
Loosen the mitre lock knob (e) and depress the mitre
detent (t). Move the head left or right to the required
angle.
2. The mitre detent will automatically locate at 0º, 15º,
22.5º , 31.6ºand 45º. if any intermediate angle or 52º
is required hold the head firmly and lock by tightening
the mitre lock knob (e).
3. Always ensure that the mitre lock lever is locked
tightly before cutting.
4. Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.
WARNING: When mitring the end of a piece of
wood with a small off-cut, position the wood to
ensure that the off-cut is to the side of the blade
with the greater angle to the fence; i.e. left mitre,
off-cut to the right - right mitre, off-cut to the left.
Bevel Cuts (Fig. 1, 2, 27)
Bevel angles can be set from 0º right to 45° left and can be
cut with the mitre arm set between zero and a maximum of
45° mitre position right or left.
1. Loosen the left side fence clamping knob (k) and slide
the upper part of the left side fence (v) to the left as far
as it will go. Loosen the bevel clamp knob (p) and set
the bevel as desired.
2. Tighten the bevel clamp knob (p) firmly.
3. Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.
Quality of Cuts
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of
variables, e.g. the material being cut. When smoothest
cuts are desired for moulding and other precision work,
a sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a slower for wood,
a sharp (80-120 tooth carbide) blade and a slower for
aluminum, even cutting rate will produce the desired
results.
WARNING: Ensure that the material does not
creep while cutting; clamp it securely in place.
Always let the blade come to a full stop before
raising the arm. If small fibres of wood still split
out at the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking
tape on the wood where the cut will be made. Saw through
the tape and carefully remove tape when finished.
Cutting Repetitive Lengths (Fig.20)
When cutting several pieces of stock to the same length,
ranging from 230 mm to 400 mm, use the set plate (ee).
Install the set plate on the holder (ee) as shown in the
figure 20.
Align the cutting line on your workpiece with either the
left or right side of the groove in the kerf board, and while
holding the workpiece, move the set plate flush against the
end of the workpiece.
Then secure the set plate with the screw.
When the set plate is not used, loosen the screw and turn
the set plate out of the way.
Clamping the Workpiece (Fig. 3, 7, 38)
1. Whenever possible, clamp the wood/ aluminum to the
saw.
2. For best results use the clamp (gg) made for use with
your saw. Clamp the workpiece to the fence whenever
possible. You can clamp to either side of the saw blade;
remember to position your clamp against a solid, flat
surface of fence.
3. Mounting the clamp: Inserting the vertical clamp to the
holes(mm) as shown in Figure 7, then rotate to the
right position. If horizontal clamp is needed, please
mounting the horizontal clamp to the holes(qq) as
shown in Figure 38.
WARNING: Always use a material clamp when
cutting non-ferrous metals.V
WARNING: Always use both of vertical clamp and
horizontal clamp when cutting small pieces.
Support for Long Pieces (Fig. 3, 8)
1.
Always support long pieces.
2. For best results, use the extension work support (ii)
to extend the table width of your saw. Support long
workpieces using any convenient means such as
saw-horses or similar devices to keep the ends from
dropping.
3. Mounting the work support(Fig. 8):
Use the supplied blade wrench(i) to loosen the screws.
Insert the work support to the holes(h).
Tighten the screws.
Cutting Aluminum Extrusion
WARNING: Never attempt to cut thick or round
aluminum extrusions. Thick aluminum extrusions
may come loose during operation and round
aluminum extrusions cannot be secured firmly
with this tool.
When securing aluminum extrusions, use spacer blocks
or pieces of scrap as shown in the Fig.28 to prevent
deformation of the aluminum.Use a cutting lubricant when
cutting the aluminum extrusion to prevent build-up of the
aluminum material on the blade.
Cutting Picture Frames, Shadow Boxes and
Other Four-sided Projects (Fig. 29, 30)
Trim Moulding And Other Frames
Try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you
develop a “feel” for your saw. Your saw is the perfect tool
for mitring corners like the one shown in figure 30. The
joint shown has been made using either bevel adjustment.
Using Bevel Adjustment
The bevel for the two boards is adjusted to 45° each,
producing a 90° corner. The mitre arm is locked in the zero
position. The wood is positioned with the broad flat side
against the table and the narrow edge against the fence.
Using Mitre Adjustment
The same cut can be made by mitring right and left with the
broad surface against the fence.
The two sketches (Fig. 29, 30) are for four side objects