
11.
Filling and Bleeding system
a)
It is advisable to replace the brake fluid if the color is brown or muddy. This is due to
water that has been absorbed by the fluid which will eventually corrode the brake lines
and master cylinder. This absorbed moisture can also cause a vapor lock situation
under extreme braking conditions. Flush system with clean brake fluid and replace
with a good grade of disc brake fluid. DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluids are acceptable.
b)
The simplest and most effective way to bleed your brakes is to use the gravity bleeding
approach as follows:
1)
With calipers installed, make sure all fittings are tight and master cylinder is
topped off.
2)
Open one bleeder screw at a time starting at the wheel farthest from the master
cylinder and working your way back around the wheel closest to the master.
With bleeder screw open, observe bleeder. At first the fluid will begin to escape
with intermittent air bubbles. When the air bubbles stop and a steady flow of
fluid is observed for several seconds, close the bleeder valve and move on to
the next wheel.
MAKE SURE TO KEEP A CLOSE WATCH OVER THE FLUID LEVEL INSIDE THE
MASTER CYLINDER DURING THE BLEEDING PROCESS. NEVER LET THE
RESERVOIR RUN DRY. ALWAYS KEEP IT AT LEAST 1/3 FULL.
3)
After bleeding both wheels and topping of the master cylinder make 20-30
applications of the brake pedal. If a hard pedal is experienced, no further
bleeding is required. If pedal is spongy, repeat bleeding process until a hard
pedal is achieved.
4)
With all bleeding complete, there should be approximately 3/4” to 1” of end play.
5)
Power brake cars will experience a “drop off” of the pedal when the engine is
started. This is a normal condition that signifies the booster is working.
6)
Pedal end play can be adjusted by lengthening or shortening the pushrod
between the pedal rod (or power brake output shaft) and the master cylinder.
This is best accomplished under the dash on standard brake cars and between
the booster and the master cylinder on power brake cars.
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