.
17.
a. Accurately drill JW-l at the marks with a 3/32" drill bit and the JW-2 pieces at the marks with a 1/8" drill bit. Reinstall
the joiner webs in the wing again, but do not glue.
b. Bolt the aluminum wing joiner assembly in place using the hardware as indicated on the plan (Plate 3, see "Section
A-A" and "B-B").
c. When you are satisfied that the joiner webs and the aluminum wing joiners are fastened correctly, pull the whole
works away from the spar. Spread epoxy over the back of the joiner webs where they contact the spar, then clamp
them in place (being careful not to glue together the aluminum pieces). When dry, give the joiner webs and inner
webs a generous coating of epoxy from the backside to insure a solid glue joint.
18.
a. Assemble a rear wing joiner channel and rear wing joiner spar and tighten the set screw.
b. Lightly sand the front face of the rear spars where the joiner webs sit, just enough to provide a flat gluing surface.
c. Pin or tape JW-3 and JW-4 in place, then clamp the rear wing joiner assembly on top of them. Carefully line-up the
aluminum joiner so that it is parallel with the front joiner, and mark the positions of the drill holes. Remove the joiners
and the webs from the wing.
d. Carefully drill JW-3 with a 5/32" drill bit and JW-4 with a 1/8" drill bit. Bolt the wing joiner assembly on the joiner webs
and make certain that it all still fits in the wing. Notice that the rear spar will have to be relieved slightly in spots to
accept the blind nuts on the back of JW-3. When satisfied with the fit, epoxy the joiner webs to the front face of the
rear spars.
19.
a. Trim the die-cut SW-1 shear web to fit between the two W-1 wing ribs. Notice that the bottom edge of this shear web
is even with the top of the cutout for the landing gear block in W-1A.
b. Glue a die-cut SW-2 shear web in place on the front of the spars. (No shear webs should be installed on the
backside of the spars now because you will need to get at the pins in the bottom spar when it is time to remove the
wing from the building board.)
c. Lightly sand flat spots on the front of the rear spars (as you did before) where the SW-3 shear web and DB-4
dihedral brace are located, then glue SW-3 in place. DB-4 will be glued in later.
d. Glue the die-cut SW-4 shear webs to the front of the main spars in the outer panel.
20.
a. Sand the top of the leading edge to the contour of the ribs. Be careful to
avoid sanding the ribs and changing their shape.
b. The leading edge is sheeted with 3/32"x3"x12" balsa on the center section
(cut from 30" material) and 3/32" x 3" x 36" balsa on the outer panels. The
sheeting should overlap onto the forward spars only about halfway. Start
gluing at the spars and work forward to the leading edge, pinning or taping
the sheets in place as you go. There will be excess sheeting forward of the
leading edge.
21.
Fill the gap at each W-2, W-3 and W-4 rib above the main spar with spacers made
of short lengths of 1/8" sq. balsa. When dry, sand the spacers down even with the
tops of the ribs.
22.
Trim the 3/16"x1/2"x4-1/2" spruce spar doubler to fit between the ribs as shown on
the plan. Glue this piece to the bottom spar only. This doubler is there to reinforce
the weak point in the spar when a relief is cut in it later to pass the aileron
pushrod.
23.
Cut two 1/8"x1/4" balsa aileron spars to the correct length and glue them to the
wing, one on top and one on bottom.
24.
Use a 3/32"x2"x36" balsa sheet for the top aileron sheeting (save the excess for later). Glue this sheet to the top of the wing
as shown. This sheet will eventually be sliced down its length when the aileron is cut from the wing.
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