spacewalker SIGRC61, Инструкция по сборке и управлению

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REFER NOW TO THE FUSELAGE INSTRUCTIONS, STEP 85, BEFORE PROCEEDING. Several steps in the fuselage
instructions actually involve work on the wing center section. Construction must be completed through Step 91 before
continuing in this section.
39.
a. Fit the basswood rear landing gear blocks to the wing by beveling the
ends to match at the center where they meet. You will have to cut away
part of the SW-2 shear webs that interfere with the blocks. Glue the blocks
in place.
b. Epoxy the die-cut DB·3 dihedral brace to the front of the rear I.g. blocks.
Clamp in place until dry.
c. Reinforce each rear I.g. block with short lengths of 3/4" balsa triangle
stock glued to the top of the blocks and SW-1.
d. Add the die-cut 3/32" x 1/2" x 4" plywood I.g. mount plate to the wing.
These plates provide a solid base for the nylon I.g. straps, and should be
flush with the surface of the rear I.g. blocks. See the "Wing Rib Cross
Section" at W-1 (Plate 3) for more clarity on their position.
40.
a. Carefully trim the wing leading edge flush with the support blocks to make
a seat for the front landing gear block assemblies.
b. Cut away the exposed portion of the two center W-1 ribs so that they are
even with the front notches in the W-1A sub-ribs.
c. Trim the front landing gear block assemblies so that their inner ends meet
at the center with the proper dihedral angle and the outer ends are flush
with the W-1A sub-ribs. The I.g. blocks must sit firmly in the W-1A front
notches and should also sit flat against the support blocks and leading
edge. Epoxy the blocks in place, being sure to use plenty of glue.
d. Fit the 1/2"x3-1/4"x2" balsa landing gear support blocks between the front
I.g. blocks and the forward spar. Glue them in place so that their surfaces
are flush with the bottom edges of the W-1A ribs.
41.
a. Cut out the bottom center sheeting that fits between the front I.g. blocks
and DB-3 from scrap 1/8" lite-ply and glue in place.
b. Add the 3/32" balsa center sheeting to the bottom of the center section.
c. Glue scraps of 3/32" balsa to the sides of the W-1A sub-ribs to finish off
the bottom center sheeting.
42.
Strips of 1/8"x3/8"x10-1/2" lite-ply are provided for stiffening the ribs at the wing joint. This is necessary to keep the ribs
from bowing inwards when the covering material is applied and shrunk tight. Cut the rib stiffeners to length and glue them
to the ribs, just below the capstrips. See the "Wing Rib Cross Section" at W-2 (Plate 3) for the exact positioning of the
stiffeners.
43.
Cut two 2"x19" strips of heavyweight fiberglass cloth from the material provided. (Save the rest of the fiberglass cloth for
covering the landing gear fairings.) Apply the strips to the top and bottom of the center wing joint using slow-drying epoxy.
You should cut the bottom strip into two pieces to avoid the slots for the landing gear wires. To apply the strips:
a. Coat the wing center with slow-drying epoxy.
b. Lay the fiberglass strip on top of the glue.
c. Holding one end of the'strip so it won't move, "squeegee" the glue through the tape with a small paddle of scrap
balsa. Scrape over the tape several times with the paddle to smooth the tape and remove the excess glue.
d. When dry, sand lightly to remove any rough spots, being careful not to sand into the fiberglass cloth itself.
Finishing The Outer Wing Panels
44.
a. The die-cut 1/8" lite-ply hatch support fits under the edge of the capstrips and overlaps the forward edge of the
servo bay sheeting 1/4". Glue the hatch support in place and add a 3/32"x1/4" balsa strip on the front edge so the
covering material has a place to attach.
b. Trim the 3/32"x3"x4-1/4" plywood servo access hatch as necessary to fit snugly over the hatch support. Drill 1/16"
dia. holes through the corners of the hatch into the hatch support. The hatch is held on with four #2 x3/8" sheet
metal screws. Be sure to mark each hatch so you can tell later which hatch goes with which wing!