Solo Tele Style DIY Electric Double Neck Guitar Kit
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Adjusting Strings Height:
String height is adjusted by the bridge saddle screws (use included Allen key). Since the fretboard has a radius
(12”), the heights of all strings should also match it. Thicker strings need more room for vibration without
“buzzing” (touching frets) and must be set up
higher than thinner strings. Low action allows easier fretting and
faster playing. Recommended measurements for electric guitar with low action:
For the 1st String (the thinnest)
–
height at the 1st fret: 0.01” –
0.016” (0.25 –
0.4mm); at the 12th fret:
.063” –
.078” (1.6
- 2mm).
For the 6th String (the thickest)
–
height at the 1st fret: 0.016” –
0.024” (0.4 –
0.6mm); at the 12th fret:
.078” –
.01” (2 –
2.5mm).
The height at the first fret can be adjusted by cutting deeper slots for strings at the nut. However, it needs a
very precise job not to spoil the nut. If you are not sure that you can do it properly, stay with a factory pre-cut
nut.
A higher string action makes the guitar harder to play, yet some musicians may prefer it.
Adjusting Neck Relief:
Neck relief is the amount of bend in the neck to allow for proper string vibration. The physical properties
involved here are the strings pulling the headstock forward (toward the front of the guitar), the thickness
of the strings (heavier gauges obviously have more tension and will pull the headstock forward more
forcibly), and string height (a combination of how the nut is cut and how high the bridge and or saddles
are adjusted). Because of the relationship between string height and neck relief, you ma y have to go
back and forth between adjusting the neck relief and adjusting the string height a couple times.
Your Solo Guitar neck has a built in truss rod which counter-acts the forward pull of the strings...in other
words, when you tighten your truss rod, you straighten the neck, or pull the headstock toward the back
of the guitar. You will have to make truss rod adjustments usually when setting up the guitar for the first
time, and then in spring and fall when there are major humidity changes in the w eather (remember,
humidity affects the wood of the guitar neck, either swelling or shrinking it).
String up the guitar as normal with your chosen gauge of strings....make sure the strings sit properly in
the nut slots at the headstock of the neck, and that the strings are brought to tension (tune the guitar).
The strings should sit easily in the nut slots, not be loose, and especially not sit on top of the slot ( if
either the slots are too loose or too small, you will want to consult an expert to either fill or file out the
slots). Now, take a couple minutes and refer to 'Adjusting String Height' to ensure the bridge and/or
saddles are correctly adjusted. Place a capo at the first fret and press down on the 16th fret....now place
a straight edge (which is at least 12"/30cm long) on top of the frets between the capo and the 16th fret
and measure the gap between the ruler and the 8th fret. Use the 6th (heaviest) string to measure.
Optimally, you will look for a gap of .001" - .002" 0.25 - 0.5 mm) but slightly more could still be
acceptable. By turning the truss rod screw with the supplied allen key clockwise, you will reduce the gap,
