.
Finally, glue sandpaper onto different sizes of scrap plywood sticks and round hardwood dowels. These are handy for working
in tight places and for careful shaping where a big block is too hard to control.
Glues
There are so many different glues available today for model construction that it can be confusing even for the experienced
modeler. To simplify matters, most glues can be classified as one of four basic types:
1. Easy-to-use water-based glues such as SIG-BOND (yellow) and SIG SUPER-WELD (white).
2. Super strong (but heavier) two-part epoxy glues such as SIG KWIK-SET (5-minute cure) and SIG EPOXY (3-hour cure).
3. Traditional solvent-based model cements such as SIG-MENT.
4. Fast cyanoacrylate adhesives (abbreviated in these instructions as "C/A") such as SIG CA, Hot Stuff, Jet, etc ...
Each of these types has different characteristics and advantages. Often times, the choice of which type to use is strictly a matter
of personal preference based on your prior experience with a previous model. However, because of the vast use of lite-ply and
hardwoods in the construction of the RISER 100, we have found that CA glues seem to work the best for the general
construction. In fact, the construction sequence of the RISER 100 fuselage is designed with the use of CA glue in mind. Other
glues could be used, but CA is recommended as our first choice because of its ability to penetrate an already assembled joint.
In other words, the fuse parts can be first assembled dry without glue, the alignment checked and adjusted, and then glue can
be applied to the joints. Read through the fuselage construction and you will better understand what we mean. You shoul also
have on hand some epoxy glue, either slow dry or 5-minute, for areas subject to unusual strain or involving metal pieces. Some
of the steps in these instructions call out the types of glue to use for that particular assembly. In other areas you can use your
own judgement as to which type is best suited to the purpose and your building schedule.
CAUTION: Some people have experienced allergic reactions when exposed to epoxy or cyanoacrylate
glues. This is very rare. However, it is extremely important that such glues, and also paints, thinners and
solvents, be used with adequate ventilation to carry fumes away.
About Printed Wood Parts
Some years ago we had kits featuring die-cut parts in both thick and thin balsa sizes. If the thick parts were cut from dry wood,
the wood often crushed or crinkled on the edges, even when using a brand new die. If the thick parts were cut from wet wood
there was an improvement- though many of them still crushed - but the swelled wood parts changed shape after drying, making
them inaccurate. So we asked modelers if they would rather have the parts printed on the wood instead. They could be cut out
in a few minutes with a saw or modelling knife and thus avoid any "die-crunching". Most voted in favour of this idea.
To answer the question we are sometimes asked - no, we do not print parts on wood to save money. It is actually more
expensive to print the parts using a silk screen press than it is to run an equivalent sheet through our automatic feed die cutting
machine. If we hand-sawed the parts it would be even more expensive and the labor cost would have to be added to the kit
price. We believe that most modelers would rather cut their own out and save the cost. Since there are not many thick parts in
our average kit, it really doesn't consume a lot of the total building time for the builder to do the parts.
FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION
Carefully remove all die-cut Lite-Ply
fuselage sides, top, bottom and
formers from their sheets. Remove any
rough edges on these parts with a
small sanding block with 220 grit
sandpaper.
1.
Drill two holes with a 3/16" drill bit
where indicated in plywood formers F3
and F4 for the outer pushrod tubing.
There are two small dimples in these
formers to mark the correct spot for the
holes.
NOTE: If the optional bolt-on wing attachment method is to be used, do not drill these holes in former F4. The pushrods will
have to pass through the open middle of that former to avoid interfering with the basswood wing bolt blocks. See Top View
of the "Optional Bolt-On Wing" drawings on plan plate 2.