.
Join the two sides at the tail at F19. Then cement in F-l between the sides at the front. Note that the sides aren't square in
the front, forward of F-3. Be particularly careful that everything is aligned properly at this point so you'll have a straight
fuselage. Beginning at F-2T and F -2B start installing cross pieces and formers. Small rubber bands will be helpful for
holding the sides against the formers during this operation . Be sure to add 1/16" square strips to F-3 and F-4 as shown
for the landing gear mounting. Note: cross pieces on the fuselage top behind the wing are installed 1/16" below the top
surface so that the 1/16" square stringers on the fuselage top will be flush with the surface when they are installed after
attaching the wings to the fuselage.
Bend the landing gear flat over the pattern on the plan. Then bend to the shape seen in the front view of the airplane.
Cement the landing gear into the slots made by the 1/16" square pieces added to F-3 and F-4. Bend axle wire over the
pattern seen in the front view of the airplane. Attach it to the landing gear with solder or bind with thread and epoxy to the
landing gear.
Notches in the formers for the stringers can be easily made by cementing a 1/16" wide strip of sandpaper to a piece of
1/16" scrap balsa and sanding out the notches. Glue the 1/16" square bottom stringers in place.
Now cover the front portions of the fuselage with 1/32" sheet. Neatness is essential so take your time in making sure the
sheets fit well. Patterns are shown on the plan for the sheets between F-l and F-2T and F -2B. The sheet covering
between F-2B and F-3 is a straight wrap and doesn't require a pattern. Bevel the edge of the planking where it passes
over F -3 so that the covering will blend onto the bottom stringers neatly.
Add the tail wheel housing parts and sand to shape. Sand all the rough edges and round the corners at the nose slightly.
It is a good idea to scallop the formers between the stringers with a rounded piece of sandpaper. This keeps the tissue
from contacting the formers and makes for a smoother covering job.
Cowling
Examine the Cowling detail on the plan. Now carefully cut four 3/32"x1/4" pieces to the length seen in the dotted lines on
the side view. Cement these parts to C-3 and then add one C-2. Cement on the other C-2 with the grain running
crosswise to the first C-2, making sure the square hole in the center lines up.
Add C-l pieces, also crossing the grain for strength. When dry, cover with 1/32" sheet, lapping over both C-2s to allow
sanding room. Note that the covering extends 3/32" beyond C-3. Sand the front round. The rocker arm covers, made from
scrap balsa, aren't essential but add a great deal to the appearance.
Paint the cowl with sanding sealer or a sealer made of a teaspoon of talcum powder in one ounce of clear dope. Apply
two or three coats of sealer, sanding between coats. Then paint outside of the cowling with white dope. The inside of the
cowling front is black. Dummy cylinders can be added as indicated on the plan.
