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find the cause and fix it now. With full right and left movement of
the transmitter's aileron control stick, the ailerons should move
approximately 3/8" up and 3/8" down.
RECEIVER BATTERY PACK
Wrap the battery pack with a single layer of 1/2” thick soft foam
rubber to insulate it from engine vibration and shock. Use tape or
rubber bands to hold the foam around the battery.
Install the
wrapped battery pack inside the nose of the model, under the fuel
tank floor. Try to keep the battery pack as far to the right side of
the fuselage as possible to avoid interfering with the nose gear
pushrod.
RECEIVER
IMPORTANT: Do not cut the antenna wire coming out of the
receiver or attempt to fly your model with the antenna wire folded
or coiled up! The antenna length is predetermined by the radio
manufacturer for best signal reception. Shortening or lengthening
the antenna wire can detune the receiver.
1) Following the radio manufacturer's instructions, plug all the
wires for the servos, battery pack, and switch harness into the
receiver so the radio system is fully operational. Double check to
be sure that each servo is plugged into its correct receiver
terminal and that it is responding properly.
NOTE: Since the
receiver will be hard to get at, you should use a short "extension"
wire (available from the radio manufacturer) for the ailerons. Plug
the extension wire into the receiver's aileron terminal. Whenever
you take the wing on/off the model, you can connect/disconnect
the ailerons at the plug-in between the extension wire and the
servo wire, leaving the extension wire itself permanently plugged
into the receiver.
2) Wrap the receiver with a single layer of 1/2" thick soft foam
rubber to insulate it from engine vibration and shock. Use tape or
rubber bands to hold the foam around the receiver.
3) Install the wrapped receiver inside the nose of the model, right
behind the battery pack. If the receiver seems loose in the nose of
the model, pack additional pieces of foam rubber around it to make
sure it cannot move around in flight.
Make sure the receiver
antenna wire is accessible at the back of the receiver, free and
clear of all the other wires.
4) NOTE: The following step describes running the antenna
outside the airplane along the bottom of the fuselage. There are a
lot of other ways to handle the routing of a receiver antenna. If you
prefer a different method, by all means use it.
a) Drill a 1/16" dia. hole completely through the bottom of the
fuselage a couple inches behind the main landing gear. This hole
is for the receiver antenna wire to exit the fuselage. Put a single
drop of Thin CA glue on the hole to harden the edges and keep the
covering from coming loose. Let dry completely!
b) Poke the antenna wire down through the hole in the bottom
of the fuselage from the inside. Make sure the antenna wire is not
tangled up in the servo and battery wires! Continue pulling the
antenna out the bottom of the fuselage as far as you can.
c) Anchor the loose end of the antenna on the outside of the
model near the rear of the fuselage using a T-Pin and small rubber
band (not supplied). Stick the T-Pin into the bottom of the fuselage
and glue securely in place. Tie the rubber band to the antenna and
then loop it over the T-Pin. The antenna should be just taught, not
tight! The rubber band allows a certain amount of give in case the
antenna is snagged by accident.
Optional: It’s a good idea to install an antenna “strain relief" fitting
on the antenna wire, inside the airplane, right where the antenna
exits the bottom of the fuselage.
Some radio manufacturers
include a strain relief fitting with their systems. If not, you can
make one simply by drilling three 1/16” dia. holes in a small piece
of thin plastic, as shown in the next photo. Thread the antenna
back and forth through the holes.
Position the fitting on the
antenna wire to provide a little bit of slack between in the fitting and
the receiver. This keeps the rubber band from constantly pulling
on the antenna at the receiver.