
.
About The Building Sequence
The quickest and most efficient way to complete a model is to work on several pieces at the same time. While the glue is drying
on one section, you can start on or proceed with another part. Keep in mind that the number, sequence used in this book was
chosen as the best way to explain the building of each major component and is not intended to be followed in exact one-two-
three fashion. Start on the wing at No.1 and after doing as many steps as is convenient, flip over to "FUSELAGE
CONSTRUCTION" and do a step or two there, then back to "WING CONSTRUCTION" and so forth. You will arrive at points
where you can go no farther until another component is available. Plan ahead! Read the book completely and study the full size
plans before beginning construction.
Refer to "The Basics of Radio Control"
In addition to these instructions you are reading now, the booklet "The Basics of Radio Control" has been included with this kit
as a reference for installing the engine, fuel tank, and radio in the Four-Star 120. It also contains very important information for
preparing your model for flight. Modelers of all experience levels are encouraged to read this book and follow its guidelines for
success. Highly experienced modelers may want to pass the booklet on to their club or student RIC pilots so that they can
benefit from the information as well.
Notes Before Beginning Construction
Any references to right or left refers to your right or left as if you were seated in the cockpit.
To build good flying models, you need a good straight building board. Crooked models don't fly well! The building board can be
a table, a workbench, a reject "door core" from the lumber yard, or whatever - as long as it is perfectly flat and untwisted. Cover
the top surface of the building board with a piece of celotex-type wall board or foam board, into which pins can be easily
pushed. Don't hesitate to use plenty of pins during assembly to hold drying parts in their correct position.
When pinning and gluing parts directly over the full-size plans, cover the plan with wax paper to prevent gluing the parts to the
plans.
Don't use a ball point pen for making marks on the model during construction. If not sanded off, these ink marks will show
through the model's final finish. Use a pencil instead of a pen.
Leave all die-cut parts in the sheets until needed in construction. Then remove the pieces from the sheets carefully. If difficulty
is encountered, do not force the part from the sheet - use a modeling knife to cut it free. The die-cut balsa and plywood parts
can be identified using the plans and the "KEY TO DIE-CUT PARTS". Mark the identification numbers on the corresponding
parts before removing them from the die-cut sheets. All of the other parts can be identified by the "COMPLETE KIT PARTS
LIST". Sort the different sizes of sticks and sheets into individual piles to avoid confusion during building.
COMPLETE KIT PARTS LIST
Die-Cut Balsa
8 3/32"x3"x 8" W-1 and W-3 Wing
Ribs
4 3/32"x3"x18" W-2 and W-3 Wing
Ribs
1 1/8"x6"x21-1/2" Fuselage Top
Deck
Sheet Balsa
4 1/16"x4"x30" Stabilizer and Fin
Sheeting
4 3/32"x2-1/2"x42" Trailing Edge
Sheeting
1 3/32"x3"x36" Wing Center
Sheeting
2 3/32"x4"x36" Wing Center
Sheeting
1 1/4"x2"x12" Stabilizer Center
Block, Fin Base
Balsa Shear Webs
12 3/32"x4"x1-11/16" SW-1 Shear
Webs (2 packs of 6)
6 3/32"x4"x1-3/16" SW-2 Shear
Webs (1 pack of 6)
22 1/16"x4"x11/16" SW-3 Shear
Webs (2 packs of 11)
Stick Balsa
5 3/16"x3/8"x24" Fuselage
Stringers, Fin Spacer
14 1/4"x1/4"x42" Wing Spars (12),
Stabilizer/Fin Frames (2)
3 1/4"x3/4"x30" Stabilizer/Fin
Frame
1 3/8"x3/4"x2" Spacer for
Tail Fairing Blocks
1 1/2"x3/4"x5" Trailing Edge Fill-In 1 3/4"x30" Triangle - Braces, Tail
Fairing Blocks
Special-Cut Balsa
2 5/16"x1/2"x42" Trailing Edge
(tapered)
2 3/8"x3/8"x42" Leading Edge
(quarter round)
2 3/8"x2-3/4"x38" Pre-Cut Ailerons 2 3/8"x3"x14" Pre-Cut
Elevators
1 3/8"x4"x12" Pre-Cut Rudder
Содержание Four-Star 120
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