.
86.
a. If you wish to install a pilot, now is the time to do it. (A Williams Brothers
3" scale Sportsman pilot was used in our prototype models.) Be sure to
glue it firmly so it won't come loose in flight.
b. Cut the excess plastic away from the canopy using scissors. Cut to the
mold line around the front and at the sharp corner around the back. Sand
the rough edges smooth being careful not scratch the clear plastic.
c. Trial fit the canopy to the fuselage and trim it as necessary for a good fit.
Position it so that the raised frame ends at the rear tips of the top deck
and tape it down at a couple of spots.
d. Draw a line on the fuselage along the bottom edge of the canopy.
Remove the canopy, then carefully cut away a 1/16" wide strip of
covering using the line as your guide. The idea here is to expose a strip
of bare wood where the canopy makes contact so that it can be firmly glued to the fuselage. Apply a flexible white
glue like Wilhold RG-56 all along the bottom edge of the canopy, then strap it to the fuselage with masking tape until
the glue dries.
e. Dress up the bottom edge of the canopy by applying 1/4" striping tape (like Sig Super Stripe), half on the canopy
and half on the fuselage. Finish off the canopy with more 1/4" striping tape applied to the raised frame and at the
back edge.
Optional Tail Brace Wires
We've flown our prototypes extensively without tail brace wires and have never had any problems. However, tail bracing is
such a common feature on large sport models that it seemed appropriate to include them as part of this kit. If you plan on
using a typical 1.20 4-stroke engine (or .90 2-stroke), you don't really need the braces. If you're leaning towards bigger
engines with more power and vibration, the tail brace wires are probably a good idea. For just a small increase in weight,
complexity, and drag, the tail brace wires will provide enough extra strength to put your mind at ease while you're wrapping
the model around the sky!
Four 2-56 x10" threaded rods are provided to serve as tail brace wires. Four standard RIC links (2-56 thread inside) and
four solder clevises (unthreaded) are also provided for the ends of the tail brace wires. Take each link and cut off the side
that has the pin in it (a Dremel tool with an abrasive cutoff wheel works best). Enlarge a hole in the remaining half with a
3/32" drill bit. Use a vise to hold the clevis while you drill - not your hand!
Assemble two upper tail brace wires and two lower tail brace wires as shown on Sheet 2 of the plans (see the full-size "Tail
Brace Wire Assembly" diagram).
Fit the wires to the model by bending
the end of each link to sit flat against the
model sUrfaces. Adjust the threaded
links and jam nuts until the wires are
snug, but not pulling the tail surfaces
out of shape. Use three 2-56 x1/2"
machine screws and three 2-56 hex
nuts to fasten the links to the fin and
stabilizer. Attach the bottom ends of the
lower brace wires to the bottom of the
fuselage, just ahead of the tailwheel
bracket, using two #2 x 3/8" sheet metal
screws.
NOTE: The remaining sections of these instructions concerning engine and fuel tank installation, radio installation, pre-
flight checkout, and flying, provide information that is specific to the FOUR-STAR 120. For a more in-depth look at any of
these subjects, please refer to "The Basics of Radio Control" booklet also included with this kit. In particular, it is strongly
recommended that you go through the "Pre-Flight Checklist" in Chapter 7 carefully before attempting to fly.
Engine And Fuel Tank Installation
Engine installation on the FOUR-STAR 120 is simply a matter of bolting the engine and engine mount in place on F-1.
Install the throttle cable on the carburetor arm and assemble the push rod connector on the throttle servo arm. The exact
position of the cable in the push rod connector will have to be adjusted after the rest of the radio has been installed.
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