.
Shrinking And Sealing Koverall
After both sides of a surface are covered, shrink the Koverall evenly with an iron or heat gun (be sure to read the Koverall
package instructions). The fabric. is now ready to be sealed with clear dope. The dope that you apply to the top of the
fabric will soak through and bond with the dope underneath, firmly cementing the Koverall in place.
Thin the dope until it brushes on easily and flows out smooth (about 25% to 30% thinner). The first coat should be applied
sparingly to avoid puddles underneath the fabric. The second coat will seal most of the pores of the Kove rail , and from
then on running. through will not be a problem. Sand the model VERY LIGHTLY with FINE sandpaper after the second
coat is dry. You may need three to five coats of clear dope on the Koverall before going to color, depending on how heavy
the coats are. Use your own judgement about when you've applied enough clear dope. Keep in mind that weight can build
up fast when you're painting! Don't bother trying to completely fill the weave and avoid using heavy sanding sealer or
primers. The goal is to hide the seams and provide "an even base for the color paint.
Finishing With Supercoat Dope
(Complete the model through step 83 of "FINAL ASSEMBLY" before applying the color dope to your model.) The best
results can usually be obtained by spraying the color coats of dope with spray equipment. Thin the dope for spraying by
mixing in an equal amount of Sig Supercoat Dope Thinner. Apply two or three coats, starting with the lighter colors,
followed by darker trim colors. Mask off your trim scheme with low-tack drafting tape, then seal the edges of the tape with
clear dope (applied with a small brush) before applying the trim color. A final coat or two of clear dope over the color dope
will add a nice gloss to the finish. Stick with Sig products from the start and you'll be rewarded with a classy finish that is
rugged and easy to repair.
Applying Decals
The supplied decals can be used over any type of finish as long as the surface is clean. If needed, replacement decals are
available from SIG (order SIGDKM265A, SIGDKM265B, and SIGDKM265C).
Cut out the decals with sharp scissors, leaving about 1/32" to 1/16" of clear at all edges and rounding the corners as you
cut. Wet the surface on which the decal will be placed with soapy water (use dishwashing detergent). Place the decal on
the model and squeegee the water from underneath with a balsa paddle. This procedure allows time for repositioning and
prevents air from being trapped under the decal. Allow several hours to dry.
INSTALLING EASY HINGES
Sig's famous EASY HINGES have been included with your kit to hinge all of the
control surfaces. Each ultra-thin hinge is actually a three-part laminate - a tough
plastic inner core sandwiched by an absorbant wicking material. They have been
chemically treated to slow down the reaction of thin CA (which is normally
instant), to allow the glue time to soakall the way to the ends of the hinge and into
the wood surrounding it. Once the glue has dried, the hinge cannot be pulled
from the structure without tearing wood out with it! We recommend that all
surfaces be covered before hinging.
77.
Using a No. 11 X-Acto blade (or similar), cut slots approximately 1/2" in depth
and slightly wider than the hinges. Cut eight slots in the stabilizer and eight
matching slots in the elevators at the locations shown on the plans.
78.
After all of the slots have been cut, insert EASY HINGES halfway into the
stabilizer slots. DO NOT GLUE THE HINGES YET! Next, carefully slide the
elevators onto the hinges. You'll find it easiest to slide the elevators onto the
hinges at an angle, one at a time, instead of trying to push it straight onto all of
the hinges at once. Don't be concerned if the hinges aren't perfectly straight or
centered in the slots - they'll work regardless of their final position.
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