
MOUNTING THE COWL
Before mounting the cowl, carefully inspect its inside rear edges.
Use sandpaper to smooth the inside rear surface of the cowl,
making it free of any bumps or ragged edges that may scratch or
dent the fuselage when pressed in place. Also, make sure the four
mounting holes are open and free of any debris.
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1) Carefully fit the fiberglass cowl in place over the engine and
back onto the fuselage. The head of your engine will likely
fit inside the cowl. If it does not, you will now need to open
the cowl cheek, allowing clearance of the head, rocker arm
cover or whatever else may be contacting the inside of the
cowl. This is largely a matter of carefully observing where
the engine part is contacting the cowl and then marking that
location on the cowl with a felt marker. Remove the cowl,
and use a Dremel® Tool to make a small hole in the cowl
at the point of contact. Refit the cowl, checking the hole
location and size, adjust as needed and again use the
Dremel® Tool to work on the opening.
This method is
referred to as "sneaking up" on the opening, making a
perfect clearance hole. A handy tool for this job is a small
penlight.
The penlight can be used from the inside or
outside of the cowl to highlight and spot required hole
locations. We suggest using a clearance distance rule of
thumb of at least 3/16" from the cowl to any engine part.
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2) Once the cowl is in place without any part of the engine
contacting it, push the cowl back onto the fuselage until the
engine prop mounting flange emerges from the front
spinner ring. This flange must clear the front of the cowl by
at least 1/16".
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3) Slip the spinner backplate in place over the engine prop
shaft, pushing it all the way back to the prop mounting
flange. Mount a prop or prop stub "dummy" in place on the
drive shaft, followed by the thrust washer and retaining nut.
Tighten this assembly sufficiently to bring the spinner
backplate firmly in place against the prop mounting flange.
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4) We suggest mounting the cowl with a 1/16" space between
the back of the spinner and the cowl. This allows for small
thrust adjustments, if desired. Use scrap pieces of 1/16"
plywood to space the cowl behind the back surface of the
spinner backplate. Center the spinner backplate to the cowl
and use masking tape to hold it securely in this position.
Use masking tape to secure the back of the cowl to the
fuselage, leaving the four pre-drilled mounting holes
uncovered. With the cowl securely in place, it is in position
for mounting to the fuselage.
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5) Use a 7/64" dia. drill bit to drill holes through the fuselage,
centered in each of the four holes in the cowl (1 hole on
each upper right and left sides of the cowl and 1 hole on
each bottom right and left sides of the cowl). From your
parts bag, locate two (2) 1/8" x 3/4" sq. plywood plates, four
(4) 4-40 x 1/2" nylon bolts and four (4) 4-40 blind mounting
nuts. The two 1/8" x 3/4" sq. ply plates will be glued to the
inside of the fuselage at the upper right and left hole
locations, directly over the holes just drilled. Hold one of the
ply plates in place, flat against one of the upper inside cowl
mounting holes and use a sharp pencil, from the outside, to
make a mark on the plate. Remove the plate and use a
5/32" dia. bit to drill a hole through the plate at the mark just
made. Apply epoxy glue to one of the 4-40 blind nuts and
insert it into the plate, pressing it firmly in place - wipe off
any excess glue. Apply glue to the face of the ply plate and
hold it in place inside the fuselage. Before pressing the
plate in place, run one of the 4-40 nylon bolts through the
cowl and into the fuselage. Engage the bolt into the threads
of the blind nut, mounted in the ply plate. Thread the bolt in
place, tightening it until the plate is firmly in place against
the inside of the fuselage. Repeat this procedure to secure
the opposite side of the cowl with a nylon bolt, plate and
blind nut.
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6) The two bottom cowl holes are handled in a similar manner
but without using plywood plates. Apply epoxy glue to one
of the 4-40 blind nuts and insert it into one of the bottom
inside cowl hole locations. With the fuselage flat against
your workbench, use pressure to seat the nut firmly into the
plywood. Wipe off any excess glue and repeat the process
with the remaining blind nut and cowl mounting hole.
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7) Use the four nylon 4-40 x 1/2" bolts supplied in your kit to
secure the cowl to the fuselage from the outside. Remove
all masking tape, the 1/16" plywood spinner/cowl spacer,
the retaining nut, prop and spinner backplate. Check your
work and remove the cowl from the fuselage.
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8) An opening must now be made in the bottom of the cowl.
This opening is absolutely necessary to allow incoming air
to properly flow through and exit the cowl. Without this
opening, your engine will overheat and quit.
If you are
using a 2-stroke engine, such as the Irvine 1.20 or 1.50 or
a 4-stroke, such as the Saito 1.20, 1.50 or the 1.80, we
suggest using an opening, which measures 4-1/8" wide by
7" deep. This size opening allows the exhaust pipes on
the recommended SIG muffler for the Irvine engines to
clear the cowl with plenty of additional air exit area, as well
as allowing plenty of air for 4-stroke engines. This opening
may certainly be "customized" for your particular
engine/muffler set-up, as long as there is sufficient air exit
area.
Stand the cowl upright on its rear edge, nose up, with the
bottom side facing you. You will need a ruler, a 90° triangle
and a fine point non-permanent felt marker pen to mark the
cowl for cutting. The approximate width of the bottom rear
edge of the cowl is 6-1/2". Make a mark at the center of the
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