.
Finishing With Supercoat Dope
Complete assembly of the model before applying the color coats to the model. The best results can usually be obtained by
applying the color coats of dope with spray equipment. Thin the dope for spraying by mixing in an equal amount of SIG
SUPERCOAT DOPE THINNER or SIG RETARDER. Apply two, or three coats, starting with the lighter color, followed by
the darker trim colors. Mask off the trim scheme with low-tack drafting tape or 3M automotive striping tape. Seal the edges
of the tape with clear dope (applied with a small brush) before applying the trim colors. A final coat or two of clear dope
over the color coats will add a nice gloss to a finish that is rugged and easy to repair.
Applying The Decals
The supplied decals can be used over any type of finish as long as the surface is clean. If needed, replacement decals are
available from SIG (order SIGDKM273A, SIGDKM273B, and SIGDKM273C).
Cut out the decals with sharp scissors, leaving about 1/32" to 1/16" of clear at all edges, rounding the corners as you cut.
Wet the surface on which the decal will be placed with soapy water. Place the decal on the model and squeegee the water
from underneath the decal with a balsa paddle. This procedure allows time for repositioning and prevents air from being
trapped under the decal. Allow several hours to dry.
Installing Easy Hinges
52.
a. With a No. 11 X-Acto blade, cuts slots approximately 1/2" in depth and slightly wider than the hinges. Cut six slots
in the stabilizer and six matching slots in the elevators at the locations shown on the plan.
b. Place a small straight pin in the middle of each hinge.
53.
Insert EASY HINGES halfway into the stabilizer slots, the pins will provide automatic location. DO NOT GLUE THE
HINGES! Starting at one end slide the elevators onto the hinges at an angle, one at a time. It's next to impossible to start
all of the hinges at once. Don't be concerned if the hinges aren't perfectly straight or centered in the slots, they'll work
regardless of their final position. Remove the straight pins.
54.
1. To set the hinge gap, deflect the elevators to the maximum amount needed. For best control response, the gap
should be as small as possible but big enough to allow full movement of the control surface without binding.
2. EASY HINGES were designed to use THIN CA for maximum glue penetration. Place three or four large drops of
THIN CA directly onto the hinges in the gap. The glue will wick into the slot as it penetrates both the wood and the
hinge. Continue this process, gluing the same side of all of the hinges. Turn the stabilizer over and repeat the
gluing process on the other side of each hinge. Set the stabilizer/elevator assembly aside while the glue cures -
about an hour.
55.
a. Repeat steps 53 and 54 to attach the ailerons to the wing. Use six hinges in each aileron.
b. The rudder is hinged in the same manner as the other control surfaces, but it's easier to permanently install the
rudder hinges AFTER the fin has been glued to the fuselage. Cut matching slots for four hinges while the fin and
rudder are easy to handle.
56.
a. Mark a centerline on top of the stabilizer, making sure that the centerline
is perpendicular to the trailing edge of the stabilizer. Pin the stabilizer to
the fuselage, mount the wing to the fuselage and measure from the
trailing edge of the wing to the trailing edge of stabilizer. Both
measurements should be the same. If there is any difference rotate the
stabilizer until the measurements are identical.
b. When satisfied with the alignment, draw cut lines on the bottom of the
stabilizer at the fuselage sides, and on the top of the stabilizer at the tail
fairing blocks. Remove the stabilizer and cut away the covering between
the lines, exposing the bare wood underneath. Use a sharp knife to cut
the covering material - try not to cut into the balsa sheet. Use the same
method to expose the area under the tail fairing blocks.
c. Permanently glue the stabilizer to the fuselage using KWIK-SET epoxy. Recheck the stabilizer alignment and
adjust as necessary before the glue cures.
57.
a. Cut away a 3/8" wide strip of covering from the center of the stabilizer where the fin is to be glued. Also, remove the
covering material from the front of the fin where the tail fairing blocks make contact.
b. With KWIK-SET epoxy glue the fin to the top of the stabilizer, using a triangle to check its alignment before the glue
cures. Make certain that the fin trailing edge is firmly glued between the fuselage sides.