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• When cutting long pieces of timber or molding, support the
opposite end of the stock.
• Align cutting line on the workpiece with the edge of saw
blade.
• Grasp the stock firmly with one hand and secure it against
the fence.
• Before turning on the saw, perform a dry run of the cutting
operation just to make sure that no problems will occur
when the cut is made.
• Grasp the saw handle firmly, then squeeze the switch
trigger. Allow several seconds for the blade to reach
maximum speed.
• Slowly lower the blade into and through the workpiece.
• Release the switch trigger and allow the saw blade to stop
rotating before raising the blade out of the workpiece.
■
BEVEL CUT
A bevel cut is made by cutting across the grain of the
workpiece with the blade angled to the fence and mitre table.
A bevel cut is made with the mitre table set at zero degree
position and the blade set at an angle between 0° and 45°
(Fig 23)
■
TO BEVEL CUT WITH YOUR MITRE SAW
• Pull out the lock pin and lift the saw arm to its full height.
• Loosen the mitre table locking knobs.
• Rotate the mitre table until the pointer aligns with zero on
the mitre scale.
• Lock the mitre table by securing the two mitre table lock
knobs.
• Loosen the bevel lock handle and move the saw arm to the
left to the desired bevel angle.
• Bevel angles can be set from 0° to 45°
• Align the indicator point with the desired angle.
• Once the saw arm has been set at the desired angle,
securely tighten the bevel lock handle.
• Place the workpiece flat on the mitre table with one warped,
place the convex against the fence. If the board is warped,
place the convex side against the fence. If the concave edge
of the board is placed against the fence, the board could co
lapse on the blade at the end of the cut, jamming the blade.
• When cutting long pieces of timber or molding, support the
overhanging end(s) of the stock.
• Align the cutting line on the workpiece with the edge of saw
blade.
• Grasp the stock firmly with one hand and secure it against
the fence.
• Before turning on the saw, perform a dry run of the cutting
operation just to make sure that no problems will occur
when the cut is made.
• Grasp the saw handle firmly, then squeeze the switch
trigger. Allow several seconds for the blade to reach
maximum speed.
• Slowly lower the blade into and through the workpiece.
• Release the switch trigger and allow the saw blade to stop
rotating before raising the blade out of workpiece.
■
COMPOUND MITRE CUT
A compound mitre cut is a cut made using a mitre angle and a
bevel angle at the same time. This type of cut is used to make
picture frames, cut moulding, make boxes with sloping sides,
and for certain roof framing cuts.
To make this type of cut the mitre table must be rotated to the
correct angle and the saw arm must be tilted to the correct
bevel angle. Care should always be taken when making
compound mitre setups due to the interaction of the two angle
settings.
Adjustments of mitre and bevel settings are interdependent
with one another. Each time you adjust the mitre setting you
change the effect of the bevel setting. Also, each time you
adjust the bevel setting you change the effect of the mitre
setting.
It may take several settings to obtain the desired cut. The first
angle setting should be checked after setting the second
angle, since adjusting the second angle affects the first.
Once the two correct settings for a particular cut have been
obtained, always make a test cut in scrap wood before making
a finish cut in good wood. (Fig 24)
WARNING: To avoid serious personal injury
keep your hands outside the no hands zone; at
least 75mm from blade. Never perform any
cutting operation freehand (without holding
workpiece against the fence). The blade could
grab the workpiece if it slips or twists
WARNING: To avoid serious personal injury,
always push the mitre table clamp back down
before making a cut. Failure to do so could
result in movement of the mitre table while
making a cut causing serious personal injury.
WARNING: To avoid serious personal injury,
keep your hands outside the no hands zone; at
least 75mm from the blade. Never perform any
cutting operation free-hand (without holding
workpiece against the fence). The blade could
grab the workpiece if it slips or twists.
Fig.23
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