Royal Enfield 250 CLIPPER, Руководство по техническому обслуживанию мастерской

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ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
PAGE 21
C18
automatic advance mechanism. If it is run too
slowly, "blueing" of the exhaust pipe may take
place.
After the engine has been run for some time
and has become thoroughly hot, go over all the
cylinder head and other nuts to ensure that they are
tight.
The silencer fitted to some of the later models
(the type with the alloy end piece), may be
dismantled for cleaning before being refitted to the
machine.
After removing the
5
/
16
in. nut and tab washer
in the tail, the tail piece and central body may be
drawn off the long central stud located in the front
portion of the silencer. (See Fig. 5.).
22. Cleaning the Oil Filter
The oil filter is in the oil supply to the big end
and is located in the top of the crankcase on the
near-side of the engine just behind the cylinder.
The filter element is removed by unscrewing the
nut which holds the end cap in position. When
re-assembling the filter after cleaning, take care that
no grit or other foreign matter is sticking to it.
The felt element should be taken out and
washed in petrol after the first 500 miles and after
every subsequent 2,000 miles. Fit a new element
every 5,000 miles.
All later models: The gauze filter fitted inside the
timing case of later "250 Clipper," "Crusader
Sports" and "250 Trials," and all "Super 5,"
"Continental," "GT" and "350 Bullet" models,
should also be cleaned in petrol after the first 500
miles, and subsequently about every 2,000 miles.
23. Changing the Oil
After the first 500 miles and subsequently
about every 2,000 miles, the oil should be drained
from the tank and engine sump.
To drain the tank remove the hexagon-headed
plug underneath the near-side of the engine. The
small screw on the same side of the engine drains
the sump.
Recommendations as to the grade of oil to be
used are given in detail in the Instruction Book.
24. Removal of the Timing Chain and
Sprockets
Take off the primary chaincase as described in
Subsection 1 and remove the timing chain
tensioner slipper.
Remove the crankshaft sprocket nut and
washer.
Withdraw the camshaft sprocket from the tapered
camshaft using Special Tool No. E.4870. The
timing sprocket on the end of the crankshaft has a
parallel bore and can be drawn off easily.
Remove the camshaft sprocket, timing sprocket
and chain all together, taking care not to lose the
key.
When replacing the sprockets and chain see
that the timing marks are opposite one another in
line with centres of the sprockets and that the key
is in position. Note that the slot in the end of the
crankshaft for the timing sprocket is offset so that
the sprocket cannot be put on the wrong way
round (see Fig. 1).
25. Overhauling the Oil Pump
The oil pump is located in a small chamber cast
in the cam housing cover. It is not necessary to
remove the latter to dismantle the pump but, if it
has been removed it must be re-fitted before the
pump is re-assembled.
Remove five
3
/
16
in. hexagon headed screws
and take off the pump cover.
Withdraw the pump disc, plungers, spring and
spring cap.
Check the fit of the plungers in the disc; they
should have a minimum of clearance but should
be able to be moved in and out by hand.
If, when fitting a new disc or plunger, the
plunger is found to be too tight, carefully lap with
metal polish until it is just free. If the pump disc is
not seating properly or if a new pump disc is being
fitted, it should be lapped to the seating with
Special Tool No. E.5425, using Carborundum 360
fine paste or liquid metal polish, until an even grey
surface is obtained.
Wash all passages, etc., thoroughly with petrol
after lapping, in order to remove all traces of
grinding paste, and then oil the parts thoroughly.
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