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Clutch adjustment (Figure 3)
Adjustment is provided by a barrel type adjuster retained by a lock nut
on the threaded portion of the clutch rod.
1.
Slacken the lock nut and turn the adjuster to give 12.7mm
(1/2in) free movement at the clutch pedal.
2.
After adjustment retighten the lock nut.
Specification
Clutch type
Borg & Beck spring type or Laycock diapragm
type pressure plates with 158.7mm (6.25in)
diameter single dry plate.
Operation
Mechanical.
Figure 3 Clutch adjustment – mechanical (700cc)
1.
Lock nut
2.
Adjuster
Hydraulic clutch (after chassis number 941001)
The clutch cover, disc and release bearing are the same as the
mechanically operated system as is the pedal assembly. Removal and
replacement of these items has been covered earlier in this section.
Routine maintenance
The only maintenance required is to check the level of the fluid in the
system and top up if necessary. The fluid level is checked by removing
the left-hand cover in the foot well and then removing the master
cylinder cap. The correct level is approximately 6.25mm (1/4”) below
the top face of the cylinder. The cap and the surrounding area should
be wiped scrupulously clean before removing the cap, to avoid fluid
contamination.
Ensure that the air vent in the cap is clear as a blockage will cause
pressurisation in the reservoir leading to incorrect operation.
Bleeding the clutch hydraulic system
1.
Clean the area surrounding the bleed screw on the slave
cylinder and remove the rubber dust cap from the bleed
screw. (Figure 4)
2.
Fit a suitable tube on the bleed screw and put the free end
of the tube into a container containing clean brake fluid.
Ensure that the end remains immersed in the fluid
throughout the bleeding operation.
3.
Whilst an assistant slowly depresses the clutch pedal
unscrew the bleed screw approximately one half of a turn.
Repeat pumping the clutch pedal until air bubbles are no
longer being pumped through. Have the assistant hold the
pedal fully depressed and tighten the bleed screw.
4.
Check the fluid reservoir level and top up as required.
Figure 4 Clutch slave cylinder 750cc
1.
Bleed screw
The clutch master cylinder (Figure 5)
The clutch master cylinder is secured to a mounting bracket, welded
to the chassis, and is linked by a push rod directly to the clutch pedal.
A faulty master cylinder can be diagnosed by excessive pedal
movement or signs of leakage in the area of the rubber dust boot and
push rod.
Blockage of the air vent in the filler cap will result in positive pressure
in the fluid reservoir which can prevent the return of the clutch pedal.
Stiffness of the pedal operation can indicate a partially seized master
cylinder.
Master cylinders should be changed as complete units. Whilst seal kits
can be purchased and fitted this practice is not recommended.
Содержание Rebel 700 1967
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