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Test fit the wing (it should be pretty well finished by now, including priming) in the
specified position fore/aft until it is a snug fit. Align the wing so that it is parallel to the
table top, using a ruler to measure from the center of the leading and trailing edges to the
table top. The wing should be located about ¼” below the deck. It is acceptable for the
leading edge of the canard to be up to 1/16” closer to the table top than the trailing edge,
but it is NOT acceptable for it to be any higher.
Once you are satisfied that the wing is perfectly parallel, CA it in place to tack it there.
Use thickened 5- minute epoxy to attach it firmly to the hull. Thick epoxy will tend to
make a nice fillet between hull and wing surface. Don’t use too much epoxy here, as it
only adds weight. You can round the fillet with your fingertip.
Once this cures, you are ready to begin final preparations for the finish and painting of
your model.
FINISHING
The fiberglass UL1FG is made using standard epoxy resin, and is compatible with most
modern finishing products and techniques. You will need to sand, fill (use automotive repair
materials), prime, and paint the model according to the standard procedures recommended by
your finish vendor. The prototype model was finished using Krylon, but others have since
been finished with Pactra Formula U polyurethane with a Hobby Poxy clear top coat. The
ABS hull may be finished with any
plastic model paints, our favorite being
Testors Model Masters (Guards Red for
Pocket Mechanic, Bright Yellow for
others).
Photos of the model and real boats are
available on the RC-Hydros.com web
site. Visit us at on the Internet to see
how to decorate your boat according to
a scale finish, or use the official photos
available at www.ulrs.org.
For the 1999 season, the UL-125 was
sold and started running as the UL-10. Documentation is available online for the UL-10 at
several places including www.ulrs.org. Decals for the UL-10 in the “Earl’s Performance
Products” setup are available from us as well.
