5
BREAK-IN
Don’t break in to anyone’s layout room to steal their GMD-1. Just buy more for yourself.
But this isn’t about that kind of break-in.
Every locomotive needs a break-in period. Your GMD-1 has been tested at our new LRC
factory for about two minutes. That is not enough time to get the gears to mesh nicely
or to even out any jerky operation in a new motor. We suggest that, after reading this
manual, you put your GMD-1 on a test loop and just let it run in each direction for an
hour or two. Fast and slow.
There already should be enough grease in the gearbox so you don’t need to add any.
Just let the thing run.
WHICH WAY IS FRONT?
The 1600-series GMD-1A locomotives were configured to operate short-hood forward,
as they did when retrucked into 1400-1434. But the 1400-series GMD-1Bs, they were
left to operate long-hood forward when they were rebuilt. Your DCC-equipped models
reflect these differences. If you wish to change the direction that your GMD-1 operates
in, you can use CV29. Simply read the value for CV29, and then add 1 to that value.
Simple!
HOW TO HOLD YOUR GMD-1
The GMD-1 has numerous very delicate parts. If you want to back date it to be the qual-
ity of a model produced in 1978, then rip all the parts off. We’re assuming you don’t
want to do that, so the GMD-1 should be picked up carefully. The fuel tank and the
middle of the long hood are both easily accessed and well balanced — if your hands
are big enough, the best way to pick up the unit is to grab it from above with your thumb
and forefinger on either side of the fuel tank. Always make sure your hands are free of
shmutz before touching your engine.
If you are taking your GMD-1 to the club all the time and regularly handling it, stuff will
break off. We suggest wrapping your GMD-1 in a plastic bag before placing it in the
packaging or in your holder so you can catch bits that fall off. White glue is the recom-
mended adhesive for reattaching the bits, although you can also use CA if you are very
careful and very brave.
