LEDS1
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49. Install R31, R32, R33, and R34, 68 ohm resistors [blue-gray-black].
50. Install the 2.1mm power jack (J6).
51. You now need to solder up the cable that connects the LED board to
the main board. Strip the ends off of the twisted red and back wire.
Unscrew the caps from the power plugs and slide them onto the wire. Now
solder the red wires onto the center pins and the black wires onto the side
pins. Screw the end caps back on.
Now it’s stroboscope time!
SETUP AND TESTING
Plug the cable you just made into the LED board and J5 on the main
board. Plug in a 12V DC center “+” adapter into J2 on the main board.
If you bought the matching case for your LEDS1, attach the LED board to
the top of the case with some double sticky foam tape.
Push S3 to turn on the unit. Now, for stroboscope mode, make sure S2 is
in the out position. The LEDs should be flashing. If you turn the pot you
can vary the flash rate. To have some fun with the stroboscope mode, find
something that spins to do some “stop motion”. A fan can work, depending
on how fast it’s spinning. A toy top also makes a good test subject. When
you have your spinning test subject going, point your flashing LEDS1 at it
and adjust the strobe rate until it appears to “freeze” in time. The effect
can be quite striking. The strobe rate will have to be different depending
on how fast your test object is spinning. If you’re using a top, you’ll notice
that as it slows down, you will have to readjust your LEDS1 to
compensate. Another cool thing to try is to go into a dark room and start
your LEDS1 flashing. Now move around in front of it, or have a friend do
it. You now have your own mini disco!
Let’s test out the audio mode. Connect the RCA jack to a line level audio
source like a stereo. Push in switch S2 to set the LEDS1 to audio mode.
Now set switch S1 to set the filter. When the switch is in, the high pass
filter is selected, when it is out, the low-pass filter is selected. High pass is
for treble, low pass is for bass. On the low-pass setting the lights should
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