R.L.W. McCabe Lumber Co. Slatyfork Sawmill Interior, Руководство пользователя

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McCabe Lumber Company
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End User Information
This kit is not intended for use by novice modelers, or
individuals under the age of 18 without the supervision of
an adult. Additionally, the modeler assumes all liability
regarding the proper use of this product or any product
suggested. The user must become familiar with the kit
instructions, and instructions on any product used to
complete this kit. Please read and follow all safety
procedures for all products used to finish this kit. Details
may vary between scales and from the sample model shown.
Color Pallet
The basic colors are from the Floquil railroad colors line
except as noted. You may follow our suggested pallet:
Coach Green Stainless Steel
Rust Reefer Gray
Rail Tie Brown Caboose Red
Aged Concrete Antique White
Earth
Grimy Black
Woodland Scenics' Mini-Scene Paint Set
Naturally, you may use any colors you wish. Just
remember that flat, dull colors are preferable to loud bright
colors for a realistically-finished model. Some colors
apparent in the photos are mixtures of two or more of the
basic colors. These mixtures are used only on detail items
and are not critical.
On the model, Coach Green was used on the machinery.
The blades, rollers and outer surfaces of the wheels were
painted Stainless Steel. Reefer Gray was used on the wood
components. Control levers are painted Caboose Red with
Grimy Black handles.
Most parts can be painted prior to assembly and most
should be painted prior to removing from the carrier sheet.
Since excess paint can cause warping, use small amounts
and paint both sides. In addition, the parts should be
airbrushed lightly with the base color rather than painted
with a brush; this will reduce the opportunity for it to warp
out of shape. A light base coat can be applied using a spray
can if an airbrush is not available. Placing under a flat weight
will also reduce warping.
Please, wear rubber gloves and a paint mask when
dealing with model paints, and work in a well-vented area.
Some of the solvents are not user-friendly!
Wood Grain and Color
Wood grain is just one of several items that is well worth
the time necessary to apply it and gives a proper look and
feel to a wood structure. It will look better if the wood grain
goes on after the initial base color coat. The addition of
wood grain will also make the nail holes on a given wall
less prominent. Please remember that wood grain should
only be applied to parts representing wood on the finished
model.
1. Use a sharp hobby knife to apply the wood grain.
2. Add two to three lines of wood grain per laser-cut board
or laser-scored board. Do this by beginning at the end of a
scale board and working to the other end in one continuous
line. Do not try to make these lines straight, but rather just
try to stay on that board. Slight waviness is exactly the result
you will want.
3. Trim the ends of some boards shorter than others and
carve away some of the material between boards.
A base coloration of thinned light tan, such as Earth, is used
for all of the wooden components in this kit not specified to
be a specific color. Some folks think it is necessary to sand
the black edges off of all of the laser-cut parts. Not true. If
you follow the suggested painting techniques, you will not
have to spend time sanding all the edges of parts before
assembly. Laser-cut edges can be base-colored with Antique
White prior to applying a light color. This will easily hide
any burned edges.
Weathering
The gray weathering wash formula used is based on
experience with laser-cut components and castings, and
should be applied after all the paint work is done. Too dark
a formula of weathering stain against a relatively-light finish
coat will tend to overemphasize laser-engraved nail holes.
You may wish to try this weathering wash formula:
• Obtain a one ounce empty bottle.
• Fill your bottle about 3/4 full with denatured alcohol.
• Add about 30 drops of India ink and mix well.
This Alcohol & India Ink (A&I) wash will be used on the
details of this kit. If it needs to be slightly darkened, just
add more ink. However, it is a good practice to re-wash an
object rather than use a wash which might be too dark. This
wash should be used on all of the castings after painting
them, and after final placement to mute the colors
realistically. When first applied, it will look terrible, but let
it dry before passing final judgement.
The second wash is a reddish-brown mixture. Using
the same procedure listed above, simply substitute brown
shoe dye for the India ink to create an
Alcohol & Dye (A&D)
wash. It can be used on all castings also.
An alternate method for final weathering is to use
powdered chalks. You will also need a 1” wide soft brush.
Never use this brush for anything other than chalk work.
And never wash this brush! Use your brush to dust all
exterior surfaces of the model. Brush and blow off excess