Construction Manual
www.oldschoolmodels.com
Page 13
vertical fin, you’ll need to fit a smaller piece.
On each side of the vertical fin, two “trapezoidal” pieces will need
to be cut and fitted. The grain for these two pieces switches from
cross-grain, to run with the length of the fuse.
Step 70 - Fuselage Assembly (H4, magnets)
Locate H4 from
LP2 and glue it in
place on top of the
fuselage, as shown
here - straight
across with the rear
edge even with
the rear of F3.
Also locate two of
the magnets. Push
one into the pre-
cut circles on each
side of the fuselage, as shown in this photo.
Step 71 - Fuselage Assembly (H1, H2, H3, magnets)
Locate H1 and both H3’s
from LP3, both H2’s from
LP2, and the remaining
two magnets. These parts
make up the top hatch.
H1 has an angle cut on the
front end, so depending on
the powerplant choice you
made when constructing
the fuselage either side be
the top - test both ways for the best fit. When properly seated, it
will fit in the area between H4 you just installed and F2. You may
have to do a little sanding to get a good fit.
Make a mark to designate the top of H1, then remove it and place
it up-side-down on your workbench. Glue both H2’s in the front
slots and both H3’s in the rear slots as shown.
Also press in the magnets into the H2’s, making sure the magnets
are oriented properly to attract, not repel, the corresponding
magnets in the fuselage.
Step 72 - Fuselage Assembly (FSP3, FSS3)
Locate FSP3 and FSS3 from BP12.
These are glued to the insides of
the fuselage sheeting, in front of
F1. FSP3 is glued to the inside of
the port side, and FSS3 is glued
to the inside of the starboard
side. These may have to be
trimmed and sanded slightly to
match the fuselage sheeting shape.
Step 73 - Sanding (fuselage)
Now it’s time to get out your sanding tools again and give the
fuselage a smoothing over.
Smooth out the edges of the fuselage. Because of the 3/16”
framing installed in each corner under the fuselage sheeting, you
can be a little more aggressive in rounding the corners if you’d like.
Step 74 - Elevator Slot
For the most of the Mambo
build, we’ve tried to do as much
engineering and pre-cutting for
you.
But, for this step, you’ll need to do
a little bit of work yourself.
Referring to the diagram, you’ll
need to mark a 3/16” wide slot
from the rounded portion of the elevator cutout, straight back
to the end of the fuselage. The easiest way to do this is to lay a
straight-edge on the top of the elevator and mark the line, then do
the same on the underside of the elevator.
Now, using ether a sharp hobby knife or small hand saw, carefully
cut out this area of sheeting and the portion of the rear fuselage
cap.
This area will need to be filled in later using some scrap balsa, but
only after the stab and elevator has been covered and hinged.
Step 75 - Ailerons
Locate both 5/16” x 1-1/4”
shaped balsa sticks. These will
form the ailerons. Measure
and cut the strips so you’ll end
up with two ailerons of equal
length - roughly 19-1/2” long.
Sand bevels into the leading
edge of both ailerons and
round the outer tips to match
the curvature that you sanded into the wing tips.
This completes the major assembly of the Mambo’s airframe.
Step 76 - Tailwheel choice
There are two ways to go with the tailwheel for your Mambo.
You can visit your local dealer to pickup one of many different
assemblies available, or you can make your own with a little effort.
This choice is important as the type of tailwheel may require drilling
into the leading edge of the rudder before it is installed in the next
step.
We chose to make our own by
bending a piece of wire to create
a wire that can be inserted into the
rudder, eliminating the need for
brackets, screws and springs. A piece
of 1/16” or 5/64" music wire typically
works nicely. In either care you'll need
to supply your own tail wheel and
wheel collar.
Step 77 - Hinge the control surfaces
Included with in your Mambo kit
are strips of hinges. These are CA
hinges, requiring a little bit of thin
CA to secure them in place. These
hinges come in strips, so separate
them into individual hinges.
Referring to the plans you’ll see a
number of spots called out where
Magnet
Mark and cut
3/16” wide slot
