w w w . t e a m n o v a k . c o m
The Super Sport Plus has the industry-standard receiver input connector
on a user-replaceable input harness &
works with all major radio brand’s
new receivers
. However, some very old receivers must have the wiring
sequence in the plastic 3-pin connector housing changed.
This is important,
because receiver & servo electronics may be damaged if the sequence is incorrect.
JR • Hitec • Futaba • New KO • Airtronics Z
JR • Hitec • Futaba • New KO • Airtronics Z
JR, Hitec, Futaba, new KO, & Airtronics Z receivers do not need input
harness re-wiring.
Airtronics Z receivers have blue plastic cases & new KO
cases have tabs on the input harness openings as in
Figure 1
.
• Plug one end of the input signal harness into the THROTTLE CHANNEL (#2)
of receiver with the
BLACK wire toward the outside edge
of receiver case.
• Plug the other end of the input harness into 3-pin header inside the ESC’s
case with the
WHITE wire toward the ‘S’ (signal) marking
on the ESC’s case
above the rectangular signal harness opening.
Old-style KO • Old-style Sanwa/Airtronics
Old-style KO • Old-style Sanwa/Airtronics
If you have an older KO or Sanwa/Airtronics, you must change the
sequence of the ESC’s input harness wires--Old Sanwa/Airtronics cases
are black color & Old KO cases do not have tab openings, as in
Figure 2
above.
• Using a small flat blade screwdriver,
remove the red & black wires
from the
plastic housing at the receiver end of the input harness as in
Figure 3
below.
•
Interchange the red and black wires
in the plastic 3-pin connector housing
at the receiver end of the input harness.
• Insert modified end of the harness into the THROTTLE CHANNEL (#2) of
receiver with the
RED wire toward the outside edge
of receiver case.
• Plug the other end of the input harness into the ESC with the
WHITE wire
toward the ‘S’ (signal) marking
on the ESC’s case.
FIGURE 3
With a small standard screwdriver, gently lift plastic
prong until wire and metal socket easily slide out of plastic housing.
changing wiring sequence
changing wiring sequence
changing wiring sequence
changing wiring sequence
changing wiring sequence
@
@
@
@
@
receiver end
receiver end
receiver end
receiver end
receiver end
FIGURE 1
FIGURE 2
New KO (with tabs)
Old KO (no tabs)
tabs
no tabs
black
red
red
white
black
white
P2
P3
step
step
step
step
step
1
11
1
1
–
connect input harness
step
step
step
step
step
3
3
3
3
3
–
motor & battEry cONNEctiON
1. MOTOR CAPACITORS NOT NEEDED
Novak brushless motors do not require external motor capacitors.
2.
DO NOT USE SCHOTTKY DIODES IN BRUSHLESS-MODE
Schottky diodes must NOT be used with reversible ESCs (including
brushless). Schottky diode usage will damage the ESC & void warranty.
3. FACTORY-INSTALLED POWER CAPACITOR REQUIRED
The Super Sport Plus comes with a factory-installed Power Capacitor,
and it MUST be used during both brushless & brush-type motor usage.
If Power Cap. becomes dented or damaged, ESC failure can occur
--replace immediately.
Longer Power Capacitor wires will decrease performance
.
4. CHECK FOR PROPER GEARING
Refer to the ‘GEAR SELECTION’ portion of the PROGRAMMING/GEARING
Sheet (Pg.5) to determine proper gearing & avoid overheating.
5. SOLDER MOTOR POWER WIRES TO MOTOR
a
a
a
a
a.....
Cut the Super Sport Plus’
BLUE, YELLOW, & ORANGE
silicone motor
power wires to the desired length, and strip 1/8-1/4” of insulation
from the end of each wire. Tightly twist the exposed strands of wire.
b
b
b
b
b.....
Insert the ESC’s
BLUE Phase ‘A’
motor wire into the hole in the
motor’s
‘A’ solder tab
& solder. Use a soldering iron to apply heat to exposed
wire that extends through the PCB, and begin adding solder to tip of
soldering iron and to the wire. Add just enough solder to form a
clean & continuous joint from the plated area of the solder tab up
onto the wire. Use side cutters to trim remaining (now soldered) wire
extending beyond the solder tab (about 1/16” above PCB).
IMPORTANT NOTE:
DO NOT OVERHEAT SOLDER TABS
Prolonged/excessive heating of solder tabs (motor or ESC) will damage PCB.
c
c
c
c
c.....
Solder the ESC’s
YELLOW Phase ‘B’
motor wire to the
motor’s ‘B’ solder
tab
as described in Step 5B above.
d
d
d
d
d.....
Solder the ESC’s
ORANGE Phase ‘C’
motor wire to the
motor’s ‘C’
solder tab
as described in Step 5B above.
Note: Make sure no wire strands have strayed to an adjacent solder tab, this will
result in short-circuiting & severe ESC damage, which will void the warranty.
6. PROTECT SENSOR WIRES WITH SPIRAL WRAP
Use the included spiral wrap to protect the 6 Teflon sensor harness
wires between the ESC & motor.
7. CONNECT SPEED CONTROL TO BATTERY PACK
Connect the speed control’s Tamiya-style JST battery connector to a
charged 4 to 7 cell (1.2VDC/cell) battery pack.
step
step
step
step
step
2
2
2
2
2
–
MOUNTiNG ESC
Mount ESC with power wires away from other electronics & moving parts.
Select a location that allows airflow through heat sinks--
If the ESC gets air
flow, it will run cooler; and that means it will be more efficient, and you will go faster!
1. MOUNT ESC IN VEHICLE
using included double-sided tape
.
The slide-
mount channel on the back of the ESC’s case can be used to hold the ON/OFF
switch or Power Capacitor.
Be sure receiver & antenna are mounted as far from
ESC, power wires, battery, & servo as possible--these components all emit RF noise
when throttle is applied. On graphite or aluminum chassis vehicles, it may help to
place receiver on edge with crystal & antenna as far above chassis as possible.
Note: Mount antenna as close to receiver as possible--trail any excess wire off top
of antenna mast (cutting or coiling excess antenna wire will reduce radio range).
2. SECURE POWER CAPACITOR TO SLIDE-MOUNT BRACKET OR CHASSIS
Use included P.Cap bracket to
mount Power Capacitor to the
ESC’s slide-mount channel or
tape it to the chassis with the
included double-sided tape
(Capacitor can also be tie-wrapped
to the power wires)
.
To use slide
mount channel, slide P.Cap
bracket into channel on the ESC
& secure Power Capacitor to the
bracket with tie-wraps.
3. INSTALL ON/OFF SWITCH
using a screw or the included
double-sided tape where it will
be easy to access.
The switch is also designed to be
installed into the ESC’s slide
mount channel.
BRUSHLESS-MODE SET
-UP
PHOTO
(FIGURE 5)
Power Cap.
tie-wrapped
to bracket
Slide
mount
ON/OFF
switch
NOvak bRuSHlESS mOtOrS
NOvak bRuSHlESS mOtOrS
NOvak bRuSHlESS mOtOrS
NOvak bRuSHlESS mOtOrS
NOvak bRuSHlESS mOtOrS
(Fig.5)
bRuSH-typE mOtOrS
bRuSH-typE mOtOrS
bRuSH-typE mOtOrS
bRuSH-typE mOtOrS
bRuSH-typE mOtOrS
--Note: You MUST switch ESC to Brush-Mode
(see Programming/Gearing sheet)
1. MOTOR CAPACITORS
Electric brush-type motors generate RF noise that causes interference.
The included 0.1
µ
F (50V) non-polarized, ceramic capacitors must be used
on all motors to reduce motor noise & prevent ESC damage.
Note: Some motors come with built-in capacitors. If your motor only has 2 capacitors,
you need to install a capacitor between the positive & negative motor tabs––If you
experience radio interference with built-in capacitors only, install external ones.
Solder 0.1
µ
F (50V) capacitors between:
• POSITIVE (+) motor tab & NEGATIVE (–) motor tab.
• POSITIVE (+) motor tab & GROUND tab*.
• NEGATIVE (–) motor tab & GROUND tab*.
*If motor has no ground tab (below), solder the capacitors to motor can.
Negative (–) motor tab
0.1
µ
F Capacitors
Schottky diode
Positive (+) motor tab
Ground / motor can
Extra 0.1
µ
F capacitors are available in Novak kit #5620.
2. INSTALLING OPTIONAL SCHOTTKY DIODE
(Brush-Mode Only)
The Super Sport Plus does not require an external Schottky diode under
most brush motor conditions.
Note that an external Schottky will optimize
the ESC’s braking and motor performance in applications with heavy or
repeated braking (lap after lap), or when using lower turn modified motors.
• If using an axial lead Schottky diode as shown in the photo above (older
Novak style--35V/8A min.), solder lead
CLOSEST to the silver stripe
on the
Schottky diode’s body to the
POSITIVE (+) motor tab
. Solder the lead
OPPOSITE the silver stripe
on the body to the
NEGATIVE (–) motor tab
.
• If using the Novak Racing Schottky Motor Module (this is the best performing
Schottky diode available), solder the
RED wire
from the module to the
POSITIVE (+) motor tab
. Solder the
BLACK wire
from the Schottky module
to the
NEGATIVE (–) motor tab
.
If Schottky diode is installed backwards it will be destroyed. Replace only with
Schottky diodes with a minimum rating of 35 volts/8 amps.
Racing Schottky Motor Modules are available in Novak kit #5636.
FIGURE 4
3. PREP & SOLDER SPEED CONTROL’S RED WIRE
To use the Super Sport Plus with brush-type motors, the
RED
power wire
must go to both
battery POSITIVE (+)
& the
POSITIVE (+) motor tab
.
using a “y” wiring metho
using a “y” wiring method
d
::
(Fig.8)
a
a
a
a
a.....
Strip 1/4-3/8” piece of insulation from the mid-section of the ESC’s
RED
silicone power wire where you want to split and go to the motor
& battery. Tin the exposed section of wire with solder.
b
b
b
b
b.....
Slide the supplied piece of heat shrink tubing over the ESC’s
RED
power wire, and slide it all the way to the ESC.
c
c
c
c
c.....
Strip 1/4” of insulation from the end of another piece of
RED
silicone
power wire. Twist & tin the wire, then solder it to the tinned section
along the ESC’s
RED
power wire & shrink the tubing over the solder
joint with a heat gun (a lighter or match also works well).
d
d
d
d
d.....
Strip & tin the end of the ESC’s
RED
power wire (after the “Y”), and
solder it to the
POSITIVE (+) motor tab
.
e
e
e
e
e.....
Cut the other
RED
power wire (after the “Y”), to the proper length so
it will reach
battery pack POSITIVE (+)
. Strip & tin the end of the wire
and solder it to battery pack POSITIVE (+).
using a single wire metho
using a single wire method
d
::
(Fig.7)
a
a
a
a
a.....
Strip 1/4-3/8” piece of insulation from the mid-section of the ESC’s
RED
silicone power wire where you will solder it to either
battery
pack POSITIVE (+)
or the
POSITIVE (+) motor tab
(whatever component
is in the middle). Tin the exposed section of wire with solder.
b
b
b
b
b.....
Solder the exposed section of the ESC’s power wire to
battery pack
POSITIVE (+)
or the
POSITIVE (+) motor tab
.
c
c
c
c
c.....
Strip & tin the end of the ESC’s
RED
power wire (after the first
connection), and solder it to the final component--either
battery pack
positive (+)
or the
positive (+) motor tab
.
4. SOLDER ESC’S BLACK WIRE TO BATTERY PACK NEGATIVE
(–)
5. PREP & SOLDER ESC’S BLUE, YELLOW, & ORANGE WIRES
With brush-type motors, the Super Sport Plus’s
BLUE, YELLOW, & ORANGE
motor phase power wires must all go to the
NEGATIVE (–) motor tab
.
a
a
a
a
a.....
Strip 1/8-1/4” of insulation from the end of the
BLUE, YELLOW, &
ORANGE
motor phase wires. Twist & tin the end of each of the wires.
b
b
b
b
b.....
Solder all of the motor phase wires (
BLUE, YELLOW, & ORANGE)
to
the
NEGATIVE (–) motor tab
.
BRUSH-MODE SET
-UP PHOTO
Single W
ire Method
(FIGURE 7)
BRUSH-MODE
‘Y’ Method
(Fig.8)
ST
A
TUS LEDs
(Fig.6)
If you are going to use connectors, we suggest Dean’s Ultra or other
low-loss connectors--do not use crimp types. To prevent possible cross-
connection of motor phase wires, we do not recommend using connectors
on the motor power wires of sensor-based brushless motors.
• Use connectors that cannot be plugged in backwards. Reverse voltage
will damage the ESC and void warranty.
• Use a female connector on battery packs to avoid shorting.
For additional information on connector usage, visit our website.
connector usage
connector usage
connector usage
connector usage
connector usage
ON/OFF switch
Power Capacitor
tie-wrapped to
slide-mount bracket
One-Touch
Set-Up
button
User-replaceable input
signal harness (Ch.2)
Black power wire
(battery negative)
Status LEDs
Trail excess wire off top of antenna mast
In-Line connection
of Red power wire
(battery & motor
positive)
Blue, Yellow,
and Orange
motor phase
wires connect to
motor negative
(–)
(+)
4 to 7 cell
battery pack
Sensor Harness
disconnected
Servo
plugged
into
steering
ch. (#1)
(–)
(+)
(–)
(+)
‘Y’ type
connection of
Red power wire
(battery & motor
positive)
ON/OFF
switch
Power Capacitor tie-wrapped to
slide-mount bracket
One-Touch
Set-Up
button
User-replaceable input
signal harness (Ch.2)
Black power wire
(battery negative)
Status LEDs
Trail excess wire off top
of antenna mast
Red power wire
(battery positive)
Blue power wire
(motor phase ‘A’)
PowerCap
wires
(–)
(+)
4 to 7 cell
battery pack
Yellow power wire
(motor phase ‘B’)
Orange power wire
(motor phase ‘C’)
Sensor
Harness
bundled with
Spiral Wrap
Tamiya-style
battery connector
Servo
plugged
into
steering
ch. (#1)
Novak
sensor-based
brushless motor
brush-type
motor
brush-type
motor
Blue
LED
Amber
LED
Green
LED
Red
LED
(–)
(+)
