- 7 -
the straight planks it would be a good idea to fit some scrap pieces
under the edge of the margin plank near the bow, so the ends of the
straight deck planks are easier to glue in place (Figure 13-2).
Using the center-
line frame joints as
a guide, carefully
glue one plank
along each side of
the centerline. It is
easier to line up the
planks if you
extend the first two
at centerline right
over the hatch and
cockpit openings
for now. You will use the cockpit template and the stringers and
frames as guides for cutting the openings.
Complete planking on both sides of the deck. Before final trimming
of hatch and cockpit, sand the deck smooth.
Carefully trim the engine hatch opening to the edges of the frames
and stringers. Cut out the cockpit template and secure it in place on
the deck. Mark the cockpit opening and carefully trim to the line. Be
careful with the deck planks at the front of the cockpit. They are
fragile here until the dash support is installed underneath.
Installing the Dashboard
Install the laser-cut dashboard support (part 23) under the deck
planking. Cut some filler support pieces (as shown in Figure 12-1 in
stage 12), then bevel and glue in the dashboard (part 24).
Installing the Deck Hatch Supports
and Hatches
Hatch supports: Glue the laser-cut forward hatch support (part 21)
to the after side of frame C, and the aft hatch support (part 22) to
the forward side of frame G. Sand the top ends of the hatch sup-
ports even with the frames .
Hatches: There are two identical hatches, one port, the other star-
board. Each is composed of four laser cut hatch frames (part 25) and
four stringers (part 6). See Figure 15-2.
Note: 12 laser cut
hatch frames are
provided on the
laser cut sheets
where only 8 are
needed. An extra
gift from Model
Shipways.
Temporarily
clamp four of the
hatch frames (part
25) in place; one
on each side at
frame C and
frame G.
Cut the hatch stringers to length. Soak the stringers in warn water
and secure onto a building board with a 1/4” block under the cen-
ter. Weight both ends of the stringers and let dry. This bend is
required to match the curve of the deck. You could also heat the
stringers with low heat from a soldering iron, or steam bend the
curve.
Fit the stringers in the two temporarily fixed hatch frames and
check the curvature. If ok, glue the stringers in the frames. When
dry, remove the frames, then add the remaining two hatch frames.
Starting with the center of each hatch section, plank both halves of
the engine hatches. Sand the surfaces of the hatches.
Sand the edges of the hatches to fit the hatch opening. Using the full
size plan for placement, notch the outside
edges of the hatches and the inside edges of
the hatch opening for the hinges (part 26).
Glue and pin the hinges to the hatches. Glue
and pin the hinges to the hatch opening
(Figure 15-3).
After the hinges have dried, sand the hatches
until they open and close freely.
Finishing the Outside of the Hull
Paint or varnish the entire outside of the hull. Refer back to the
painting section in the introduction for guidance.
Installing the Cockpit Coaming and Fittings
Cockpit coaming: Install the split rubber tube coaming (part 35)
around the edge of the cockpit opening. Secure it with super glue,
then give the joint a coat of varnish.
Fittings: Using the full size plan as a guide, glue all fittings in place;
vents (parts 28 and 29), fuel cap (part 31), cleats (parts 32 and 33),
and exhaust outlet (part 34). Drill a hole in the dashboard and
install the steering wheel (part 30). Use care to ensure that the vents
and other fittings are lined up and placed properly and test fit
before gluing.
Glue the photoetched instrument panel (part 40) to the dash board.
Reinstalling the Motor, Rudder, and
Radio Installation, and Ballasting the Boat
Replace the motor and all the radio gear in the model. Screw or rub-
ber band the components down to the supports. For the motor, add
the coupler and shaft. Glue the shaft strut to the hull and stern tube,
then install the propeller. Install the rudder and reconnect it to the
rudder control horn.
With the receiver in place, string the antenna in a large loop inside
the hull. Tape it to the sides of frames. Do not bunch the antenna
up. It must be stretched out to function properly.
Again, test the function of the motor and radio gear before making
your first test run.
Ballasting the model: The prototype model used the recommended
radio gear and the recommended locations. In these locations, the
model floated on an even keel and did not require any ballast.
However, if you use different components you may need to move
the components somewhat and add ballast (some lead weights) so
the model floats properly. If the model floats too low in the water,
you may be using components that are too heavy for this model.
A GOOD REFERENCE
If you are a first time R/C modeler, Model Expo sells a great refer-
ence book: The Basics of Radio Control Power Boat Modeling by
David Thomas. Stock No. KB12112. This is a beginners guide which
discusses R/C boats and racers using gas or electric power.
Discusses tools, materials, hull construction, detailing and painting.
CONGRATULATIONS
Your Miss Adventure is finished! Take a moment to revel in your
accomplishment. You’ve persevered when the going got rough!
Your effort has produced great results and you’ve developed skills
you never knew you had. You are ready to race. Let’s go! We hope
you’ve enjoyed your voyage and look forward to speeding along
with you on your next shipmodeling project.
STAGE 18
STAGE 17
STAGE 16
STAGE 15
STAGE 14
