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Before You Begin
The Miss Adventure is an interesting craft and makes a splendid
model. The model is well suited for the beginning Radio Control
ship modeler. At 2” = 1’ 0 scale, it is easy to build. Plank-on-frame
hull construction with laser-cut parts offers a unique building
method and assures an accurate hull form. Always complete one
construction stage before moving to the next. When things go awry,
consider doing them over.
Working With the Plans & Parts
Before starting the model, carefully examine the kit and study the
plans and drawings in the instruction manual. First, determine if all
the listed parts are present. Handling them will produce a better
understanding of the kit’s requirements. Try to visualize how every
piece will look on the completed model. Also, determine the build-
ing sequence - what must be done first - ahead of time. The instruc-
tions will help, but a thorough knowledge of the plans at the outset
is essential.
1. The Plans
Two plan sheets are provided. One has the plan of the deck and
some structural sections. The other has a profile, and plan of the
deck and bottom showing the structural framework.
2. Kit Lumber
In addition to the laser-cut parts, strips and sheets of basswood and
mahogany are supplied in the kit.
Sorting the wood in the kit by thickness and wood-type will save
time. After selecting and cutting what you need, return the remain-
ing stock to the proper thickness and wood-type pile. Don’t worry
about using a piece for one item intended for another. Model
Shipways supplies enough extra wood to complete the model
before running out.
3. Part Numbers
Throughout the instructions and plans, each part is numbered. Parts
are listed as laser-cut wood, stripwood, and fittings. Refer to the
Parts List at the end of these instructions to identify each part.
Motor and Radio Control Equipment
The kit is supplied with a Mabuchi 540 motor, shaft coupler, prop
shaft, stern tube, shaft strut and propeller, but no battery. No radio
control equipment is supplied. You will need a Two-Channel trans-
mitter, a receiver, speed control unit, servo, switch harness, battery
that operates both the motor and radio units, and a battery charger.
While any radio equipment can be used, Model Expo stocks the fol-
lowing recommended units:
1. Ranger 2 AM Two Channel-Radio (Includes 2 servos, receiver,
and switch harness) - Stock No. H131271HT
2. Electronic Speed Control - Stock No. SP610RF
3. Six Cell 1500 MAH Battery Pack - Stock No. ACE2904T
4. 7.2 V Quick Charger - Stock No. TTR2685
What You’ll Need to Start Construction
The following items are recommended for building the model.
Those who have modeled before may have their favorites.
A. Knives and saws
1. Hobby knife with #11 blades
2. Razor saw or jeweler’s saw
B. Files
Flat needle file (steel or diamond coated)
C. Clamps
1. A few small C-clamps
2. Spring-type miniature clamps
3. #16 and #33 rubber bands
D. Boring Tools
1. Small bits
2. Pin vise
E. Miscellaneous
1. Tweezers
2. Needle nose pliers
F. Sandpaper
1. Fine and medium grit garnet or #100 to
#220 aluminum oxide
2. #000 steel wool
G. Finishing
1. Paintbrushes
a. fine point for details
b. 1/4” to 1/2” flat square for hull
K. Supplies:
1. Paints (if you paint any part of the model)
2. Primer (if you paint any part of the model)
3. Stains and varnish
4. White or woodworker’s (yellow) glue
5. Cyanoacrylates (generic name is Super Glue)
6. Five-minute epoxy
7. Wood filler
Note: White or woodworker’s glue in yellow will suffice for most of the model.
Five-minute epoxy provides extra strength for affixing fittings. Cyanoacrylates,
such as Jet, Flash, or Zap, produce quick adhesion. For most applications, the
medium viscosity, gap-filling variety is best. The thin type is recommended for
filling a narrow crack or tacking hull planking to the frames and stringers.
Painting & Staining the Model
1. Preliminaries
Sanding and cleaning: Rub down external surfaces with 220 grit
sandpaper, then #000 steel wool, then wipe off every speck of dust.
Give surfaces to be painted two light coats of primer. Sand lightly
after the last application. Don’t sand down to bare wood. After
washing your hands, gently dust the hull with a soft brush and
clean, soft cloth or tack rag. Use a spackling compound, such as
Model Magic or DAP, to fill any scratches and defects in painted
surfaces, then sand and prime again.
Painting and staining: You can paint or stain the model, but like the
real craft we recommend a natural varnish finish for all the
mahogany. Why cover up the beautiful mahogany? There was how-
ever, a narrow white stripe along the top edge of the hull side,
about 1” full scale (11/64” model scale). Also, the basswood seat
interior should be painted, color your choice.
Since this is an R/C model, you need to seal the wood and joints. It
is recommended that a good quality waterproof varnish be used
such as clear gloss Varithane, or a marine varnish especially formu-
lated for use on boats. After the final finish coat is dry, sand the hull
with #000 steel wool and apply several coats of wax. Bowling alley
wax works great and cuts down the gloss a bit.
In addition to the outside, varnish the inside of the model also to
waterproof it and help seal joints.
Framing the Hull
1. Preparing the Frames and Assembling the Stand
There are 13 laser cut frame sets (part 5, designated A through M). Each
set is composed of two identical halves. Using a pencil, mark the frame
letter on each of the frame halves before removing them from the laser-
cut sheets. Remove all of the frame halves from the sheets and sand any
excess carbon (caused by the laser cutter) from the edges.
STAGE 1
