been standard practice at the time. To do this, simply run a soft
pencil down the edge of each plank before gluing it into place.
This will darken the seams and define each plank.
Then proceed to plank stern piece (ZZ). Use the same sized
strips. Start by planking the port lids first. The planking on the
lids will run horizontally. Then plank the area around each port.
You will notice on the plans that the planks around these ports
and beneath the counter run diagonally. Once again you can sim-
ulate the caulking between each plank. See the photos provided.
You may opt to add more detail to your Mayflower planking.
The planks would have been fastened to the hull using wooden
pegs called “trunnels” or “tree nails”. There are several ways
you can create them for the model. Keep in mind that the area
below the lower wales will be painted over with “white stuff”.
Should you decide to tree nail the planks, the area below the
lower wales including stern piece (ZZ) can be left as is. The tree
nails won’t be visible once the area is painted. Please note that
the port lid hinges and other lid details will not be added at this
time. We will address this a little later in the project.
One easy way to simulate the tree nail pattern is to drill tiny
holes where the ships frames would be located. Then sand the
surface with some fine sandpaper so the holes will fill up with
wood dust. After being stained the tree nails will show up nicely.
Another method would be to fill in the holes with some wood
filler. Sand it smooth and then stain. A more elaborate approach
would be to actually use wooden trunnels. Tooth picks can be
inserted into each hole with some white glue. Snip of the excess
with a nail clippers when they are dry. This technique creates a
good effect but is very time consuming. Experiment on some
scrap planking and choose the method that works best for you.
STEP 2
-
First layer of planking on the port and starboard
sides of the hull
This Mayflower kit was designed to be planked with two layers.
The first layer of planking will be done using 1/8” x 1/16” strips.
To prepare for the first layer of planking you must establish the
run for the planks along the hull from bow to stern. Use the two
laser cut bulwark templates to create reference lines on the bulk-
head edges for this purpose. Temporarily pin the bulwark tem-
plates in position. Pre drill holes through the template and into
the bulkhead edges to temporarily position them. Use the tiny
brass nails provided in the kit to secure them. Do not use any
glue as they will be removed once you have established the refer-
ence marks. You will notice that there are reference lines already
laser-etched on one side of each bulkhead to help you establish
their placement. The bottom edge of each bulkhead template
should line up with these etched reference marks, more-or-less.
By using the template you will be correcting any minor fluctua-
tions with the original laser-etched references. The bottom edge
of the bulwark template will establish the correct smooth run for
the hull planking. Pin both bulwark templates into position so
you can check that they are symmetrical with each other. Once
you are satisfied, mark new reference lines in pencil on each
bulkhead edge following the bottom of each template. Remove
the bulwark templates when you are finished. See the photo pro-
vided on page 6 showing the bulwark templates temporarily
pinned into place.
All of the planks need to be tapered on one end before you start
gluing them to the hull. The last three inches of each plank
should gradually taper from 1/8” to 80% of their width. The
tapered end will be placed at the bow. Take your time gluing the
INITIAL plank into position. Establish a smooth run for this
plank across the hull from bow to stern. The top edge of this
first plank should line up with the reference lines you made on
the bulkhead edges. Bending the planks around the curve at the
bow can be made easier by soaking the planks and placing them
into a jig. See the photo above. The jig is very simple to make.
Just use a few screws strategically placed along the approximate
curve you need. If you place the tapered end of the planks into this
jig when they are wet, they will retain the appropriate bend after they
are dry. If the screws are long enough you can pre-bend several
planks to shape at a time. You should pre-form 12 planks for this
step.
Keep in mind that this is just the first layer of planking. There is
no need to simulate the caulking or to tree nail this layer. But
take your time trying to neatly plank the hull by getting nice tight
joints. It will be good practice for when you start the final layer.
This first jig will help you pre-
bend planks around the severe
curve at the bow. Several
planks can be bent at one time
in this simple jig.
Note the space
above the initial
plank at the bow.
This will be planked
later in the project
7
Содержание Mayflower 1620
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