so there is a photo on the previous page
that shows a completed pump. That same
photo also shows the four pieces needed to
construct them.
Step 1.
– Create the main cylinder for the
log pump. The cylinder is made using a
3/16” diameter dowel. Cut it to length and
sand it so it has eight flat sides. The pump
is octagonal. Create two of each pump
element at the same time. This will help
ensure that you have a matching pair when
you are finished. Drill a shallow hole in
the top of the “log” as shown in the photo.
Two metal bands are wrapped around the
cylinder to complete this piece. You can
use black tape cut into thin strips or heavy
paper to create them.
Step 2
. – The bracket and spout for the
pump are made from a scrap of 1/16” thick
sheet or planking strips. Use the plans to
trace their shape onto the wood. Drill a
tiny hole in the end of the spout and glue it
onto the pump drum. The bracket holds
the pump handle. Creating it is straight
forward however you can see in the photo
that a small slot is filed into the top of the
bracket. This slot will accept the pump
handle. The bracket is only 1/16” thick
and the photo can be misleading.
Carefully file the groove into the bracket
trying not to split the sides. Glue this
onto to drum when finished.
Step 3.
– The pump handle is made using
a scrap piece of 1/32” thick planking.
Sand it to shape and drill a tiny hole
through one end. An eye bolt is placed in
this hole as shown. Drill a corresponding
hole in the pump drum to accept the other
end of this eye bolt. Drill it into the center
of the pump drum. Lastly, place the han-
dle in the groove of the bracket and at the
same time guide the eye bolt into the hole
of the pump drum. Your pump is now
completed and can be glued onto your
model.
The photo on the top of this page shows
the upper deck after all of the fittings have
been completed.
The Forecastle Deck …
See the photo above. You only need to
add a few pin rails and kevels as shown on
the plans. Don’t permanently glue any
belaying pins to these rails yet. They are
only shown in the photos for scale
port side of the hull. You will need to
notch the molding on the hull so each cat-
head fits properly before you glue them
into position.
Chesstrees
– A chesstree is positioned on
the outside of the hull and lines up with
the first bulwark stanchion on the upper
deck. See the same photo on the next
page and check the plans for details. The
shape for the chesstrees are shown on the
plans but should be used only as a guide.
Minor differences from model-to-model
will probably require some slight modifi-
cations be made. The chesstrees are 1/16”
thick and are cut from the bass wood sheet
provided. Drill a small hole through them
as indicated on the plans. Glue them into
position on the model. The chesstrees for
the prototype model were left with a natu-
ral finish however you may also paint
them black.
purposes.
Finishing up Some Small Details Before
Starting the Masting and Rigging…
Only a few details remain before you can
start constructing the masts in preparation
for rigging your model. The chesstrees,
channels and catheads will complete the
exterior of the hull.
Catheads
– The catheads are made from
the 1/8” thick bass wood sheet provided.
Trace their shape from the plans using the
“Beakhead Bulkhead “drawing. The pro-
file for each cathead is provided on that
drawing. Create two simulated sheaves
through the end of each cathead. Use the
same technique as described for creating
the sheaves on the knight heads. Paint the
catheads black and glue an eye bolt into
the forward side if each of them. See the
plans for details. The photo on the next
page shows the cathead in position on the
Upper Deck
Fore Castle Deck
28
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