tighten it up. The tightened halyard can be
made permanent by placing a drop of
super glue on the sheaves of the ramshead
block. The running end of the halyard can
be trimmed to the proper length and
pushed into the hatch to hide it. The photo
on the previous page shows the ramshead
block in position.
The
parral
with ribs and trucks is set up
the same way as it was for the main yard.
The
topsail sheets
(.018 Tan) are rigged
just like those for the main yard. Belay
them to the appropriate mast cleats and
finish them off with a rope coil.
The
braces
(.018 Tan) are seized to the
main stay and run through the brace pen-
dant blocks. From here they are taken
back up through 3/32” single blocks on the
main stay and belayed to the pin rack on
the forecastle rail. Finish them off with a
rope coil.
The
lifts
(.018 Tan) are rigged just like
those for main yard. Belay them to the
appropriate mast cleats and finish them off
with a rope coil.
Fore Topsail Yard…
The
tie
is rigged just like it was for the
main topsail yard. It will also have a run-
ner and a halyard. The fore topsail yard
should also be placed in its lowered posi-
tion. The only difference here is the run-
ner and halyard are belayed on the oppo-
site sides of the ship than those for the
main topsail yard. Check the belaying
plan for details.
The
sling
(.018 Black) can be created just
like the one used on the main topsail yard.
The
braces
(.008 Tan) are rigged just like
those on the fore yard. They are secured
to the main topmast stay this time and are
belayed to the same pin rack on forecastle
deck rail. Finish them off with a rope coil.
The
lifts
(.008 Tan) are rigged just like
those on the main topsail yard. They are
belayed to cleats in the fore top. Finish
them off with a rope coil.
The Spritsail Yard…
Taper the appropriate sized dowel to make
the spritsail yard. Seize all of the blocks
to yard as called for on the plans. The
yard can then be secured to the bowsprit
with a simple
sling
. Create the same sim-
ple sling that you made for the topsail
yards. The spritsail yard should also be
placed in the lowered position as it has no
sails set.
The
halyard
is rigged by seizing some
.008 tan rigging line to a 3/32” single
block. This block is rigged to the bowsprit
(where the forestay collar is located). See
the photo above. Then take the loose end
and run it through the single block seized
to the center of the spritsail yard. From
here it is brought back through that single
block on the bowsprit and belayed to the
pin rail in the beakhead. Finish it off with
a rope coil.
Rig the
lifts
(.008 Tan) for the spritsail
yard by seizing a generous length of line
to the tip of the bowsprit. Run the other
end through the 3/32” single block on the
forward side of the yard arms. Take it
back up through another 3/32” single
block seized to the bowsprit and belay it to
the pin rail on the forecastle. See the
photo on the next page and the plans for
the exact locations.
The
braces
(.008 Tan) are hitched to the
forestay. Run the loose end through the
brace pendant blocks. From here they are
taken back up to the forestay where they
are run through another single block seized
about ¼” below the standing end. Lastly,
they are reeved through another single
block on the beakhead bulwarks. These
3/32” blocks are seized to an eye bolt that
is glued into the top of the bulwarks.
Belay the braces to the pin rail in the beak
head. Finish them off with a rope coil.
The
garnets
(.008 Tan) are rigged just like
the braces.
Boomkin/Outrigger...
The last yard that you should place on the
model is the boomkin. It is positioned
outboard at the stern. The boomkin was
used to rig the sheet for the lateen sail.
The model was built without sails but this
yard should be rigged none the less.
Cut the appropriate wooden dowel to
length and taper it as shown on the plans.
You may have to cut a notch in the mold-
ing that runs across the stern. The yard
Rigging the
fore yard and
fore topmast
yards
48
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