30
WP163K
TM7, Leading edge
stock
3/32 (2.4mm) brass rod
TP9
Rudder rib 1
1
.020 photo etched brass
TP10
Rudder rib 2
1
.020 photo etched brass
TP11
Control horn
1
.020 photo etched brass
WP0976
Hinges
stock
Copper tape
The comma-shaped rudder forms part of the iconic look of the Dr.1. Bend the edge (TM6) to
shape from 1/16” (1.6 mm) brass rod using the drawing on Sheet D as a guide. Taper the 3/32”
(2.4mm) post (TM7) as shown
and slide control horn (TP11) and rib (TP9) onto it, but don’t glue
it yet. Epoxy TM7 and TM6 together on the Sheet. Epoxy ribs TP9 and TP10 and control horn
TP11 in place. Either clear coat to leave the structure brass or paint with silver.
To assemble the rudder to the fuselage first cut a clearance slot in FC10 for the control horn
(TP11). If you want the rudder to move cut the slot accordingly. Fasten rudder to fuselage using
two lengths of copper tape as done with the elevator and shown in Figure 3.4.
Figure 3.4 Rudder mounted to Fuselage.
D.
Connecting the controls
Connect the control lines that were started in Step 7 of Stage 2 to the rudder and elevator by
running them first through the eyelets on Frame 6 (FC6) in the order:
Cable from left rudder pedal through left eyelet to left rudder control horn (TP11)
One Cable each from top and bottom of control stick through second eyelet to top and
bottom of the left elevator control (TP6). Be sure pulling back on the stick causes the
elevator to rise.
Same as above through the third eyelet to right elevator control (TP6).
Cable from right rudder pedal through right (forth) eyelet to right rudder control horn.
Tie the lines as tight as possible and be sure the controls are centered when the rudder and
elevator are neutral. Wet the lines to make them shrink and, when dry, coat with thin
cyanoacrylate. Wetting only one line can help in aligning the controls and surfaces. The
controls will work, but it is suggested that you glue the surfaces in a neutral or slightly deflected
state as they will sag with time.