5
In the past, many modelers used pure silver solder to avoid the
corrosive qualities of lead in soft solder. Today, most solders are lead
free. They’re composed of tin and antimony, or tin and a small amount
of silver (3 to 4%). These solders are strong and melt at approximately
430° F. Consequently, unless you have high strength requirements
there is no reason exists to use pure silver solder (melts at 1300° F).
The key to soldering is keeping the brass clean. Use a solvent made
especially for cleaning metal parts or a simple substitute such as
vinegar, lightly sand, or both. Rinse parts in clean water that have
been cleaned with a solvent. Once the parts are cleaned, don’t touch
them. Your fingers will leave greasy spots. Soldering is easy if your
work is set up properly. First, immobilize the parts in a fixture or
other holding device, then add just enough rosin or acid paste flux
to the joint to do the job. Solder flows where flux is applied. Next,
heat the joint with a small torch or pencil soldering iron. This
sequence is important. The larger the parts, the longer it takes to
heat the brass and melt the solder. Remove excess solder with needle
files. Better yet, use a desoldering syphon or braid to remove globs
of solder before it hardens. The joint should look like the real thing,
not a big glob of fillets.
What You’ll Need To Start Construction
The following items are recommended for building models. Those
who have modeled before may have their favorites. Not all of these
items are needed for the launch model. Almost all are available at
Model Shipways web site - www.modelexpo-online.com.
A. Knives and Saws
1. Hobby knife with #11 blades, chisel blades
2. Razor saw or jeweler’s saw, miter box
B. Files
Set of needle files; steel or diamond coated
C. Clamps
1. Small spring clamps available from hobby sources
2. Clamps from office supply stores, bulldog clips and/or
binder clips
3. Wooden spring-type clothespins
4. Alligator clips
5. Rubber bands
D. Tool Set
Small carving tool set or individual gouges and chisels for
carving tasks.
E. Sharpening Stone
Keeps tools razor sharp.
F. Boring Tools
1. Miniature bits sizes #60 to #80
2. For this model bits #70 and #67 are especially useful
3. 1/32,1/16", 3/32",1/8", and 3/16" bits
4. Pin vise, rotary tool, cordless rotary tool especially useful
G. Miscellaneous
1. Tack hammer
2. Tweezers (a few)
3. Small, fine pointed scissors
4. Miniature pliers
a. small round needle nose
b. small flat needle nose
5. Small bench vise
6. Soldering iron or torch
a. solder
b. flux
7. Beeswax block (for treating rigging lines)
8. Masking tape
9. Wire cutters (for cutting fine wire and strip metal)
H. Sandpaper
1. Fine & medium grit garnet or #100 to #220 aluminum oxide
2. #400 wet-or-dry sandpaper
3. The sanding sticks sold for fingernail care are excellent and
very handy. These have medium and fine sandpaper and a
foam core, great for most sanding tasks.
I. Sail Cloth
Light weave cotton or linen cloth if sails are desired. For furled
sails, a light material such as Silkspan is ideal. Model Expo sells a
suitable cotton cloth and Silkspan.
J. Finishing
1. Paintbrushes
a. Fine point for details
b. 1/4" to 1/2" flat square for hull
K. Supplies
1. Paints
2. Primer
3. Stains and varnish
4. White or woodworker’s (yellow) glue
5. Cyanoacrylates (generic name is Super Glue)
6. Five-minute epoxy
7. Wood filler
Note :
White or woodworker’s glue in yellow or tan will suffice for
most of the model. Fiveminute epoxy provides extra strength for some
cases. Super glues, such as Jet, Flash, or Zap, produce quick adhesion.
For most applications, the medium viscosity, gap-filling variety is best.
The thin type is recommended for filling a narrow crack and wicking
into laminate joints.
Painting and Staining the Model
Beginning this manual with directions on applying finishes may
seem strange. Not so! Much time and effort can be saved and more
professional results obtained if the finishing process is carried on
throughout construction. Proper timing in applying finishes and
using masking tape to define painted edges should eliminate
unsightly glue marks and splotchy, stained surfaces. Take advantage
of these general suggestions:
1. Preliminaries
Sanding and cleaning:
Rub down external surfaces with 220 grit
sandpaper, then wipe off every speck of dust. Give surfaces to be
painted two light coats of primer. Sand lightly after the last
application. Don’t sand down to bare wood. After washing your
hands, gently dust the hull with a soft brush and clean, soft cloth or
tack rag. Use a spackling compound, such as Model Magic or DAP,
or Elmer’s wood filler to fill any scratches and defects, then sand and
prime again.
Choosing paint:
Glossy surfaces are not desirable on ship models. A
flat finish or one with a slight sheen is best, because it doesn’t reflect
daylight or artificial lights. Consequently, details show up better.
However, the undercoat or primer should be dead flat. A primer
gives the surface a little tooth and helps top coats adhere better.
Any of the hobby paints are satisfactory such as Model Shipways,
Testors, Humbrol, and Tamiya. Jo Sonja artists’ paints (used by bird
carvers) are also acceptable. They are a combination acrylic-gouache
and dry dead flat.
Hobby paints have a variety of reflectance levels from flat to gloss.
When using a mixed group of reflectance levels, finish the complet-
ed model with a flat, clear coat. It also provides durability and seals
