14
In this stage we will complete the interior structural members and
details. These include the sheer clamps, thwart risers, windlass
keepers, mast steps, cap rails and thwarts. Study the plans to
familiarize yourself with these parts.
1. Fitting the ’tween frames and cant frames
The launch was built with more frames than we have currently
installed. Frames 4 through 15 have an additional frame installed
between each frame called the “tween frames. Also the bow of the
boat is fitted with angled frames called cant frames. Prepare a
quantity of frame lengths, soak and heat them just as we did for the
previous frames and push them in place between the frames. These
should bend easily and are held in place to dry by clamping them to
the sheer strake as shown in photo 18.
Mark the location of the cant frames at the sheer and bend them in
place placing their bottom ends at the slots in the keel. These ends
need not fit in the slots as the slots are laser cut straight across the
keel and the cant frames meet them at an angle. The slots are there
just for the convenience of locating the heel end of the cant frames.
Bevel the heel ends of the cant frames to fit flush against the keel.
This area of the hull will not be seen once we are finished. When
the frames have dried, sand them if you wish and glue them in
place. We now have 26 frames port and starboard for a total of 52.
Now is the time to clean up any glue gobs. Very little of the frames
are visible in the finished model. Review the plans and photos and
concentrate on those areas of frame and plank that will be visible.
2. Installing the sheer clamps
The sheer clamps are 3/32 x 3/16 basswood strips that run along
the sheer inside of the frames. Refer to sheet 3 and photo 19.
Prepare a landing for the sheer clamps at bow and stern as shown
on sheet 2 by gluing in a small piece of 3/32 x 3/16 strip to the
inside of the sheer strake. This brings the sheer clamp to the same
level as the frames. The forward section of the sheer clamp will
need to be hot/wet bent to form the curvature of the bow. Bend
these in place and allow them to dry then glue in place as shown in
photo 19. Use a length of strip wood to ensure the sheer clamp is at
the same level as the sheer plank all along the sheer.
Now we can cut off the projecting tops of the frames. These are
easily cut off with a pair of sharp nippers, or a modelers saw. Sand
these flush with the sheer plank and the sheer clamp using a rigid
sanding board to ensure that we don’t dip down into the areas
between frame tops.
The hull is now a rigid structure and it is a good time to finish sand
the exterior. This was a work boat and would not have had a yacht
like finish. Sand the hull as smooth as you like in preparation for
painting. If you have gaps they can be filled at this point.
STAGE 4:
FITTING OUT
Photo 18, installing the ‘tween frames and cant frames
Photo 19,
installing the
sheer clamps