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5. Connecting water pipework
Please observe the following precautions during installation.
5.1. Important notes on water pipework
installation
•
The design pressure of the hydro unit water system is 0.8 MPa.
•
Use water pipe-work with a design pressure of at least 0.8 MPa.
•
When performing a water leak check, please do not allow the water pressure to
go above 0.8 MPa.
•
Perform a pressure test on the field-installed water pipes at a pressure equal to
1.5 times the design pressure. Before performing a pressure test, isolate the
pipes from hydro unit and indoor units.
•
Please connect the water pipework of each indoor unit to the correct port on the
hydro unit. Failure to do so will result in incorrect running.
•
Provide some joints and valves around inlet/outlet of each unit for easy
maintenance, checkup, and replacement.
•
Install a suitable air vent valve (supplied) on the water pipe. After flowing water
through the pipe, vent any excess air. Add air vent valves where air gaps occur
as necessary on site.
•
After the completion of test run, make sure not to reintroduce air into the pipe.
•
Secure the pipes with metal fitting, positioning them in locations to protect pipes
against breakage and bending.
•
Do not confuse the water intake and outlet piping especially when connecting the
hydro unit.
(Error code 5102 will appear on the remote controller if a test run is performed
with the pipe-work installed incorrectly (inlet connected to outlet and vice versa).)
•
The unused knockout holes should be closed and the refrigerant pipes, water pipes,
power source and transmission wires access holes should be filled with putty.
•
Install water pipe so that the water flow rate will be maintained.
•
Wrap sealing tape as follows.
1
Wrap the joint with sealing tape following the direction of the threads
(clockwise), do not wrap the tape over the edge.
2
Overlap the sealing tape by two-thirds to three-fourths of its width on each
turn. Press the tape with your fingers so that it is tight against each thread.
3
Do not wrap the 1.5th through 2nd farthest threads away from the pipe end.
•
Hold the pipe on the unit side in place with a spanner when installing the pipes or
strainer. Tighten screws to a torque of 40 N·m.
•
If there is a risk of freezing, carry out a procedure to prevent it.
•
Use copper, plastic, steel, or stainless steel pipes for the water circuit.
Furthermore, when using copper pipe-work, use a non-oxidative brazing method.
Oxidation of the pipe-work will reduce the pump life. When using iron or
stainless-steel pipework, ensure that rust from the pipework does not enter the
unit.
•
Connect the pipe and the unit so that the pipe does not interfere with
maintenance and sufficient space is left for maintenance.
•
Add water pressure gauge to see if the water pressure in hydro unit is correct or
not.
•
Be sure to braze the water pipes after covering a wet cloth to the insulation
pipes of the units in order to prevent them from burning and shrinking by
heat.
(There are some plastic parts in hydro unit.)
•
Install the unit so that external force is not applied to the water pipes.
•
Do not operate the pump before the pipes are filled with water.
•
After filling the pipes with water, immediately perform debris removal operation
and air vent operation.
Example of hydro unit installation
[Fig. 5.1.1] (P.5)
Note:
*1. Connect the pipes to the water pipes according to the local regulations.
(Connecting the pipes using coupling housings)
•
Connect the pipes as follows when connecting them with coupling housings. The
hydro-unit side of the pipe has a groove so that it can be connected to the unit
with coupling housings.
[Fig. 5.1.2] (P.5)
[Fig. 5.1.3] (P.5)
Note:
•
Use caution not to mix up the water inlet and outlet.
•
Install a coupling valve on the pipe to allow access for maintenance.
•
Install a flexible joint on the pipe to keep the vibration of the unit from being
transmitted to the pipe.
•
Install the supplied strainer in the inlet pipe on the unit to keep foreign objects
(e.g., bolts and stones) out of the water-side heat exchanger.
•
Route the piping so that the pipes will not interfere with replacement of internal
components (e.g., pumps) of the unit.
5.2. Water pipe insulation
1. Thermal insulation work on pipes
Cold (hot) water pipes require thermal insulation to prevent condensation on the
pipe surface while especially in the cooling mode as well as heat emission from
and penetration into the pipes.
1
Example of thermal insulation work on pipes using glass wool
[Fig. 5.2.1] (P.5)
2
Example of thermal insulation work on pipes using foam polystyrene pipe
insulation
[Fig. 5.2.2] (P.5)
3
Waterproofing of pipe penetration
Penetrating waterproofing membrane with pipes or sleeves may cause a roof
leak when cold (hot) water pipes are connected to units installed on a roof. To
prevent such roof leak, perform construction work on where pipes stick out of
the roof as shown in the figure below.
• Example of construction work on a roof pipe shaft when constructing a new
building
[Fig. 5.2.3] (P.6)
• Roof penetration through mortar waterproofing membrane
[Fig. 5.2.4] (P.6)
Cross-sectional view
Plain view
A
Expansion vessel (not supplied)
B
Pressure gauge (not supplied)
C
Check valve (not supplied)
D
Shutoff valve (not supplied)
E
Pressure reducing valve (not supplied)
F
Strainer (not supplied)
G
Water inlet
H
Auto air vent valve (supplied)
I
Strainer (supplied)
J
Water pipes
1. Machine a groove on a nipple on site.
Machine a groove in the size listed below on the on-site pipe for fitting coupling housings.
Pipe size
40A
50A
d
ø48.6
ø60.3 ± 0.61
G
ø44.8
ø57.15
W
8 ± 0.5
7.95 ± 0.76
L
15
15.88 ± 0.76
+0
-0.7
+0
-0.38
+0.8
-0
2. Apply soap water to the chiller-side pipe, and fit the rubber ring in the groove, using caution
not to damage the ring.
3. Insert the pipe with the grooved nipple into the rubber ring, using caution not to damage the
rubber ring.
Hold the pipe into place so that the pipe will not sag to keep the rubber packing from being
damaged.
4. Fit the housings in the grooves on the chiller-side pipe and the on-site pipe, and hold them
together with bolts and nuts.
A
#7K tar felt
B
Steel wire
C
Blown asphalt
D
Base paper
E
Pipe
F
Glass wool (Note: Absorbent material)
G
Asphalt felt
H
Cotton tape (After wrapping it around a pipe, brush polyester synthetic resin over the
tape.)
A
Adhesive (Completely fill joints of foam polystyrene pipe insulation and a gap between
a pipe and foam polystyrene pipe insulation with adhesive.)
B
Pipe
C
Form polystyrene pipe insulation (Non-absorbent material)
D
Exterior (When pipes are installed on a roof, cover the pipes with galvanized steel
sheets to protect the pipes from rainwater. This countermeasure is unnecessary when
pipes are installed inside.)
E
Adhesive tape (Ensure that it has sufficient heat resistance so that high hot water tem-
perature will not lower its adhesion.)
A
Finishing mortar (25–30 mm)
B
Cinder concrete (70–100 mm)
C
Two layers of waterproofing membrane
(10–12 mm)
D
Smoothing mortar (25–30 mm)
E
Frame concrete
F
Filled with thermal insulation materials
G
Caulking (Waterproof material)
H
Lagging (Molded paper, waterproof
paper, galvanized cast iron sheet, and
paint of a specified color)
I
Thermal insulation material (Glass wool
or rock wool)
J
Iron pipe sleeve with collar
Determine the inner diameter of a sleeve
in consideration of the outer diameter of
an iron pipe, thickness of thermal
insulation, and thickness of a filler.
K
Cold (hot) water pipe (supply pipe)
L
Cold (hot) water pipe (return pipe)
A
Cold (hot) water pipe
(supply and return pipe)
B
Thermal insulation material
C
Lagging
(covering with galvanized steel sheet)
D
Soldering
E
Galvanized steel sheet cover
F
Caulking (waterproof material)
elastomeric sealant
G
Mortal waterproofing membrane
(30–100 mm)
H
Concrete (150 mm)
A
Cold (hot) water pipe (supply pipe)
B
Cold (hot) water pipe (return pipe)
C
Galvanized steel sheet cover
D
Soldering
E
Caulking (waterproof material)
elastomeric sealant
F
Mortal waterproofing membrane
(30–100 mm)
G
Concrete (150 mm)
WT09052X01_en.book 13 ページ 2019年1月17日 木曜日 午前10時49分