Mazda Chassis Tuning, Руководство по установке

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Please Note: Steps #3 - #5 can be both time consuming and frustrating for the uninitiated.
Iron Canyon Motorsports has recently released an ICM Alignment System to assist in
“stringing” your Spec Miata. Visit http://www.ironcanyonmotorsports.com for more
information.
Step #3 (LF Toe, Camber and Caster)
Time to get that kite string and jack stands out. Adjust 2 stands where they are slightly
above the center wheel hub height. Tie your string securely to the portion of the stands that
is adjustable. Now make final corrections so the string is level with the center line of the
wheel hubs and tight enough to not be drooping. Ok, the Miata is wider in the rear, this is a
pain. You should now have a string tied to the stands with it level with the hubs centerline
with the stands stretched out about 3’ past the front and rear wheels string tight. Basically,
you will see a string running along the side of your car connected to the stands. Move the
stands around until you have a 1” gap on the LR between the string and the wheel lip front
and rear of that wheel. Once this is done, you have aligned the string to the wheel that you
already aligned to the chassis, coming together for you now? As you set toe and make other
adjustments, you will have to continue to square up the string to the LR wheel. BUT, after
we get further along, we will drop the string and use toe plates, stay with me.
Move to the front left wheel, measure from the string to the wheel lip, front and rear of the
wheel, and inline with the string. Since the rack is centered and locked down and you
have that 1” gap on the rear, you are looking at how far the toe is off verse the centerline of
the car. Adjust toe on the LF to zero. Of course, you will have to re-square your string
each time you roll the car.
While doing this corner, you are going to set your camber to -2, your caster to +3-5 (just make
sure the other side matches on caster later). Once the toe is zero, and the other settings are
correct, secure this corner but do not tighten all the way just yet.
Step #4 (RR Toe and Camber)
We now are going to move to the passenger side of the car. Dust off them toe plates, their
up now. Start by using your toe plates to get the RR to zero toe. While there, you guessed
it, set the camber to -2. Once you are done, move to the RF corner.
Remember, tighten to keep form moving only, no need to gorilla it at this point.
Step #5 (LF Toe, Camber and Caster)
Use the toe plates to match the left side, just like you did in the rear. Set the caster and
camber to match the left front.
At this point, the car is aligned with the centerline of the car, our ride height is set and our
settings are in basic form. I call this the pre-scale setup. Good for you, these cars are not
that corky, meaning not much chasing compared to other types of race cars.