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7.) I make the assumption that no parts are bent and you have used your thumb to get

toe and camber where it looks ok.    2” of toe out or +3 camber on one wheel is what
I mean, correct that NOW by eye, do not spend too much time on it.   

8.) After each setting adjustment, bounce the car in place STOP, roll it 8-10” back 

then forward to where it was.    NEVER, bounce again after you start rolling 
forward and always end your bounce going up, not down on the car.       

9.) You have a factory manual and know how to use it for finding out the procedures 

needed to make the setup adjustments.   

10.) Empty all fuel and put one gallon back in.   
11.) Using a fish scale, and after all prep is done, I measure the car’s resistance on a 

flat surface.    Record what it takes to just roll the car.    Later, as you do 
maintenance, compare the freshly prepared car to the after raced car.    If you gain
resistance, look to see if there is a reason for that gain (brakes, fluid break down, 
bearings etc…).    Correct if you can keeping in mind that you might establish a new
resistance number after the car has seen the track and become seated in.   

   
Regarding setup and especially for new builds this process below will not be very fun as you 
will chase yourself narrowing the gap of the different settings.      You will find out that when 
you make a change to one setting, others may be altered.    Be patient, the gap will lesson 
until it is right.   
   

It Begins 

 

   
Step #1 (Ride Height)   
   
Using the spring perches, adjust the ride height to 5-1\4” at the pinch weld on the bottom of 
the car at the rocker panel (see Picture 2 & 3).    It is normal for the LR to have more threads
showing on the bottom compensating for the driver’s weight.    This will take sometime as you 
get used to how the car moves on one corner while you adjust another.    BE PATIENT, keep
going back and forth till it is near perfect.    Remember this step, you will be back here again 
many times.    You will not be showing the same amount of threads corner to corner.   
Remember, the floor where your car sits AND where you measure from needs to be level!!!

   

Step #2 (LR Toe and Camber)   

   
We now need to square the car up so we can run through the first of several settings 
adjustments.    Remember those bolts I had you install, now is the time to use them.    They 
are used to measure the lower control arm on the driver’s side rear wheel verse the 
centerline of the car.    Using a telescopic measuring device, adjust the lower cam bolts until
the distance between the bolts you installed, front and rear, and the back of the outboard 
bushing flange of the lower control arm are the same, front and rear (see picture 4).    You 
now have zero toe on that wheel and that wheel is pointing straight.   
 
While doing this wheel, go ahead and make the camber -2.    You are adjusting the cam 
bolts anyway, this is what I like to do.    Often, I do not have to touch this wheel again.   
JUST REMEMBER, if you get out of whack, set this wheel again and go from there, keep 
reading.    Keeping this wheel square is vital to this process!! 

 

 

Содержание Chassis Tuning

Страница 1: ...s need to be done to the car a few assumptions have to be made and a couple techniques explained 1 The sway bars need to be disconnected on one side I like the left side 2 You need to find the center of the steering rack then lock down the column with a pair of vice grips and a bungee cord This would be a good time to adjust the steering wheel adapter if it is off center from the rack s center I u...

Страница 2: ...ght It Begins Step 1 Ride Height Using the spring perches adjust the ride height to 5 1 4 at the pinch weld on the bottom of the car at the rocker panel see Picture 2 3 It is normal for the LR to have more threads showing on the bottom compensating for the driver s weight This will take sometime as you get used to how the car moves on one corner while you adjust another BE PATIENT keep going back ...

Страница 3: ... BUT after we get further along we will drop the string and use toe plates stay with me Move to the front left wheel measure from the string to the wheel lip front and rear of the wheel and inline with the string Since the rack is centered and locked down and you have that 1 gap on the rear you are looking at how far the toe is off verse the centerline of the car Adjust toe on the LF to zero Of co...

Страница 4: ...o be made so we will concentrate on Wedge cross weight while maintaining ride height NOTE If a car has 49 of CW cross weight it is considered de wedged If it has 51 CW it is considered wedged De wedge helps the car turn left while tightening up the balance on rights Vise versa with 51 wedge I ll explain it more later The fun begins You are either REAL lucky and have a 50 car it happens or you see ...

Страница 5: ...pletion Once you are finished either because it is right or because you just gave up we have more things to do First set the sway bars to full stiff up front and full soft in the rear NO PRELOAD Then remove the vise grips from the column and let the guy that has been sitting in the car this whole time get out or remove the weight you used to simulate your body weight The car will not look right wi...

Страница 6: ...Picture 1 ...

Страница 7: ...Picture 2 ...

Страница 8: ...Picture 3 ...

Страница 9: ...Picture 4 ...

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