Mazda Chassis Tuning, Руководство по установке

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Make the adjustments in equal turns up and down (from whole turns to quarter turns). This
will decrease the CW with hardly any ride height change. One round is about 1.2%, your
car may differ. Get it exactly 50%, not 50.1 or 49.9, 50.00%.
Step #5 (the recheck)
GO BACK OVER ALL SETTINGS!
If anything is out, repeat all the above steps, something has changed. Keep going through
the steps until your step #5 yields the numbers we are after with no adjustments needed. It
might take a few times or you might be blessed with the racing gods and get it right the first
time. Once it is right, it should also be TIGHT!!!!!! Make sure you measure LAST, not
tighten last.
Step #6 (completion)
Once you are finished either because it is right or because you just gave up, we have more
things to do.
First, set the sway bars to full stiff up front and full soft in the rear, NO PRELOAD!! Then,
remove the vise grips from the column and let the guy that has been sitting in the car this
whole time get out or remove the weight you used to simulate your body weight.
The car will not look right, with no driver the platform is not level, and that’s GOOD.
We now have the car sitting there with zero toe all four, -2 camber all four, +3-5 caster both
fronts (but the same side to side), 50% CW AND sitting with driver at 5-1/4” pinch weld to
ground.
Next, I will tell you what I do at the track to tune this beast! BUT, I’ve won many competitive
races with this very setup and all but the last 3-6 tenths is capable with the settings above.
Enjoy, hope it helps!